Changing rooms of art

A 19th-century lady firefighter's coat, with waves and anchor to ward off flames
Siobhan Murphy|Metro11 April 2012
The Weekender

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The Japanese concept of kazari is hard to grasp. Literally, it means decoration, derived from the verb kazasu, to decorate the hair with flowers. But in pre-modern Japan, its meaning was much more profound and dynamic.

The word implies a spectacle of such utter gorgeousness that it would transport the person seeing it from the mundane to the sublime.

In the Muromachi period (1333 to 1573), this involved karamono (things Chinese) - carefully selected objects that were displayed in accordance with exacting manuals drawn up by curators, here recreated.

Kazari was a multi-sensory experience, with paintings and screens playing off vases of flowers and burning incense: a scene before which to take tea or read poetry.

Later, as more international influences seeped into Japan, the kazari style became more in your face. This even stretched to military costumes - there are some fabulous helmets on display here that look like something out of Flash Gordon.

In Yoshiwara, the famous ' floating world' pleasure quarter, during the late 18th and 19th centuries, the courtesans were considered living kazari.

Artists skimmed over the fact these women were sex slaves to present them as educated ideal beauties, beyond the reach of all but the most wealthy, and their belongings were exquisitely styled.

Although it's hard to fully appreciate this multi-faceted and interactive art form in such static environs, the chosen objects are stunning and this will be a oneoff chance to see such a diverse collection.

But you'll need to go twice for the full effect - a large number of the pieces are being swapped over on March 10.

Tube: Holborn/Russell Square

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