'Enormous backlash' as chain takes over family-run Hampstead Heath cafe after 33 years

Changing hands: The cafe on Hampstead Heath
Tony Marshall
Tom Marshall17 March 2016

Officials are braced for an "enormous backlash" after handing the contract to operate a much-loved family-run park cafe to a major chain.

For the past 33 years, the Parliament Hill Cafe on Hampstead Heath has been run by Alberto D'Auria, 70, and his family.

Regulars say the family have kept prices down while serving good food over the years.

But the City of London Corporation, which runs the vast north London green space, has incensed local residents by taking the business away from the family to put a chain at the helm.

The cafe at Golders Hill Park is also going to be managed by Benugo Mike Quinn
Mike Quinn

The City rejected the family's offer to continue running the business and instead awarded the contract to Benugo, which also has venues in Regent's Park and Hyde Park and across cultural institutions including the British Museum and the Barbican.

Local councillor Sally Gimson, who sits on the committee that made the decision but voted against it, told the Hampstead & Highgate Express: "It’s almost as bad as if it were a Costa coffee.

"Benugo is gradually taking over all British institutions, from Regent’s Park to major museums and galleries in London.

"I have warned the committee there is likely to be an enormous backlash from the local community."

Walkers on Hampstead Heath Oast House Archive
Oast House Archive

Renowned jazz musician John Etheridge, who lives near the Heath and goes several times a week, told the paper: "It is a shame. A big chain is bad news.

"It is an old-fashioned local cafe with very good food and good prices. The pasta is good and I cannot imagine it will be as good or as cheap. A lot of people will be very upset."

Benugo will also take on the cafe in Golders Hill Park, which is on the other side of the Heath and another popular spot with locals, as well as a third in Highgate Wood, which is also managed by the City of London.

The contract to serve food and drinks at the lido on Hampstead Heath went to a local resident, Tara Kingsley.

A woman lies on the grass at the top of Parliament Hill
Rex

The cafes will change hands in May.

Mr D'Auria told the Standard: "We lost the bid because their offer was higher than ours. I think the prices will be doubled now.

"It gets into your blood, this passion to go every day and talk to customers, but everything comes to an end. We would just like to thank all our customers for supporting us."

A spokeswoman for Benugo said: "We were delighted find out about the tender opportunity in these three special locations, and are looking forward to being able to bring our fresh, high-quality, modern British food and flavours to these unique venues.

"We are of course very mindful that in some cases we will be inheriting established food operations and are confident that our vision, plans and menus for these spaces will be embraced by these local communities."

Sue Ireland, director of green spaces at the City of London Corporation, said: "We want to make sure our visitors are getting high quality, affordable, healthy food and refreshments, with the best possible service.

"We have a duty to run our services in the most cost-effective manner as it is only by doing so that we can invest £5 million a year into Hampstead Heath."

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