Waldhaus Flims, Switzerland - hotel review: a very Swiss ski retreat

Waldhaus Flims is a true five-star experience with the charm to match, says Hugh Francis Anderson
1/8
Hugh Francis Anderson24 January 2018

It’s a mild 4oC when I land in Zurich. Rain beats down all around, and the forecasted heavy snowfall is nowhere in sight. With a sense of deflation, I clamber into the car and begin the journey to Flims, deep in the Swiss Alps, for what I still hope to be a wondrous first ski trip of the season.

As the saturated roads flow out of the city and gradually gain elevation, a smattering of snow begins to fill the landscape around; my excitement piques. An hour later, snow pours from the sky like a split bag of icing sugar, and by the time I reach Flims, the mountains around are submerged in a deep white blanket.

Here's everything you need to know about staying in the area's recently renovated Waldhaus Flims Hotel.

Where is it?

It's a 90 minute drive from Zurich Airport, and if prearranged, one of the hotel's drivers will be waiting for you at arrivals. Failing this, you can get to Flims by taking a 2-hour train journey (changing in Chur).

Style

At 147 years old, this five-star hotel and spa has just undergone a CHF 40 million redesign, seeing its original Swiss mountain opulence combined with the very latest in modern design. Set back from the rest of the town up a sweeping driveway, the mammoth Grand Hotel rises from the snow-covered pines like a magisterial citadel. The décor merges the fine line between traditional and modern; the palate is light yet warm, and the use of natural woods and grand furnishings nod to its palatial past.

Facilities

Waldhaus is truly in a five-star experience, aimed at those looking to switch off and relax in utter luxury. Originally opened as a spa in 1869, the Waldhaus Spa now covers over 3000m2, and includes indoor and outdoor pools, saunas, steam rooms, treatment rooms, and a 24-hour fitness suite with daily classes. I enjoyed a Waldhaus original, the Mountain Crystal Body Treatment. Beginning with a cleansing body scrub to clear pores, a combination of natural oils and minerals are worked into the skin using precious stones for the feeling of calmness. And calm is precisely how I felt. Afterwards, I migrated to the outdoor pool and swim in 38-degree water as snow falls through the air. Just magical.

Food & Drink

Luckily there is plenty on offer for the foodies here, with three restaurants and two bars catering for a wide variety of gastronomic and liquid palates.

After my trip to the spa, I headed to the Summit Bar for a cocktail. With a modernist fireplace taking centre stage, it's like entering a 21st century ski chalet. Then it was time to slowly migrate to Epoca to sample traditional Swiss cuisine, where I feasted on rich venison and locally sourced Pinot Noir, before heading to bed, eager to explore the ample skiing terrain of nearby Laax the following day.

Which room?

With 142 rooms spread over three original buildings; The Grand Hotel, and the 4-star Chalet Belmont and Villa Silvana, all set within acres of gardens and parkland, there is nothing but space around, which aids the calming nature of this spot. I stayed in a junior suite in The Grand Hotel, from which I had uninterrupted views of the snow-capped peaks of the Alps high above, draped with thick pines and fresh snow. It's the very winter wonderland one expects from the Swiss mountains.

Skiing

The next day, I hastily pulled up the curtains to check the snow. Over a foot of fresh powder covers the gardens outside, and I know the slopes 1km above will be almost perfect. After a quick breakfast, I took the hotel’s private shuttle to Laax, collected my skis, and rode the gondola up to Galaxy, the newly-renovated base-station. The skies were yet to clear, but the conditions were sublime.

This early in the season, only 10 per cent of the runs are open, but that still leaves almost 30kms of groomed pistes to explore. Catering for both beginners and advanced skiers alike, Laax is little-known yet highly versatile, and has been voted Switzerland’s best ski resort for the past four years. It also boasts ample off-piste opportunities to explore too. Indeed, on the gondola ride up, fresh powder covers the back country around, and the occasional lone ski or snowboard track can be seen cutting its way down the mountain. At the top, I eagerly stomp into my skis and career both on and off piste down the mountain.

The skiing continued late into the afternoon, and after a quick call to Waldhaus Flims for a ride to the hotel, I was back in the spa within 20 minutes, soothing my exhausted legs in the wood-heated outdoor sauna and plunging into the ice-capped mineral pool. This is the way to recover.

Best for:

As a hotel and spa that is incredibly popular with locals, I met numerous Swiss couples in the spa that speak highly of Waldhaus Flims, and visit regularly during the winter season. If the locals like it, it must be good.

The hotel is ideal as a couple's retreat, for a long weekend in the mountains sampling the very best in Swiss hospitality and spa-amenities.

Details:

Waldhaus Flims offers nightly rates from CHF660 (approx. £499) in winter, based on two sharing a Superior Double Room in the Grand Hotel on a B&B basis. For more information visit waldhausflims.ch

Hugh Francis Anderson is a freelance writer specialising in adventure, motoring and luxury lifestyle. Follow him on Instagram@hughfrancisanderson and visit his website hughfrancisanderson.com

Create a FREE account to continue reading

eros

Registration is a free and easy way to support our journalism.

Join our community where you can: comment on stories; sign up to newsletters; enter competitions and access content on our app.

Your email address

Must be at least 6 characters, include an upper and lower case character and a number

You must be at least 18 years old to create an account

* Required fields

Already have an account? SIGN IN

By clicking Create Account you confirm that your data has been entered correctly and you have read and agree to our Terms of use , Cookie policy and Privacy policy .

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in