Punta Tragara, Capri – hotel review

Gazing out over the Faraglioni and just a swim away from the bar, David Ellis finds himself wooed by the old money charms of a hotel once rented by Churchill and Eisenhower 
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In the south of Italy is Naples, where in the old town spritz are a couple of euros and even the pizzerias are visited by Michelin. Eat, drink, then head to the dock: 40 minutes away on the ferry is Capri, the city’s well-to-do cousin.

It is merrily more expensive and an island of comforts, of which the hotel Punta Tragara is one of the best. It’s a historic building, first built as a mansion for the family of an engineer, Emilio Errico Vismara. His longest-standing achievement, it is hardly like engineering at all; it seems, somehow, to have grown out of the rock it sits on. That it has 44 rooms is a surprise – the place is grand, but it is tranquil too. There are no crowds, no rushing.

The place is casual about its gorgeousness and about its history. There’s a nod to Churchill and Eisenhower, who used the place during the war and there’s a little about its heyday when Count and Countess Manfredi - the grandparents of the current owner - would summer with cocktails and long swims, but that’s it. This is old money modesty with all of its charms.

Where is it?

Capri, which isn’t quite everything that is expected of it. It is monied, very monied – but, for much of the time, the flashiness is subdued. Capri retains its soul and the charm of southern Italy (the half that has more fun); the white buildings sit in the green shade of overgrown trees and all the house numbers are mosaics. What really lets on that place hums with cash is the condition of everything; there are no falling down buildings or runaway cracks, there is no flaking paint. There are no scraggly bushes and, come to that, no scraggly people. People on Capri don't have chapped lips or cracked nails.

To get to the hotel wander down the main path from the main piazza, Umberto I. It sits at the end of it overlooking the famous Faraglioni. Get the right room and you’ll gaze right out over these gorgeous cliffs.

Tasteful: room are simple but elegant

Style

Italy has a reputation opulence but Capri is not, say, Venice – don’t expect endless frescos and ornate detailing at the Tragara. Punta Tragara has an easy, Dickie Greenleaf charm. Super luxury? Certainly, and there’s proof in the artwork dotted around and all the marble in the bathrooms, but rooms are light, tastefully simple, woken up with touches of colour; a chair the colour of Campari, a cushion as pink as prosciutto.

In the daytime, they’re breezy havens from the heat, though the balcony is where you’ll want to spend the day, preferably with a bottle of fizz and a bucket of ice. The rooms that look out over the sea also catch the sunset.

Which room?

If money is no object, try the Art suite, where the bath, bed and huge terrace all overlook the Faraglioni. Still, everything here shimmers; calling the junior suites “junior” feels unfair, given their generous size. Try to ensure you nab a room with the sea view: there’s not a hangover in the world that a glimpse of the endless blue can’t cure.

Just a swim away: the pool is handily close to the gin bar

Facilities

There are not one but two swimming pools, both which stare out over the sea, and both which are within a wave of the Monzu bar (handy, that). This bar is big on gin, and do plenty of classics, though expect lighter, summery serves at a steep price. If it’s too early to drink – impossible on holiday? – there’s also the gym and a four room spa. The breakfast room is beautifully done, too.

Food & drink

In the hotel itself is Monzù. Here, they do feasts, well mannered feasts; try delicate, gorgeous plates of pink lamb on tart fennel crumble, or suckling pork belly with warming almond puree. The tasting menu delivers course after course after course of rich Italian goodness; we ate a sumptuous, indulgent amount of food. Drink too. Wine started at first as a delicate consort but by the end was an intemperate, unruly partner in crime. But – woozy Italian nights are what life is for.

The hotel has a sister restaurant, the Michelin starred Mammà, where the view seems endlessly distracting until the food comes. The restaurant is in a love affair with the sea; in clean, bright surroundings they plate up dish after dish of fresh fish, octopus, sea urchins, clams, the rest. On the walls are pictures of all the famous people that have eaten here over the years; some things never change. The place is a harbour of charm.

Perfect view: the famous Faraglioli sit just beside the hotel

Best For

Escaping the world on a weekend - things don’t feel entirely real here, which is a wonderful high.

How to get there

Capri doesn’t have an airport so head over by ferry to the Marina Grande, where the smartly dressed staff from the hotel wait to collect bags. From there, it’s 15 minutes: catch the cable car up to the Piazzetta (looking much the same as it did in It Started In Naples), wander through Via Caramelle then stick to Via Tragara. The walk is green and in theory short; it lengthens to gasping-for-a-G n’ T lengths after the countless Instagram updates.

When should I go?

The pull of Capri is such that it entirely fills up with its shining crowds in July and August, when it is so busy that from the mainland you can practically hear the chatter of conversation and the tinkle of a thousand wine glasses tapping in cheers. It is bursting then, though still gorgeous.

Alternatively, go in May or early June, or better yet, late in the season, September and October, when the days are still hot enough to laze in the pool and the nights go cool for long walks around the island.

Details

Rooms from €521, Via Tragara, 57, 80073 Capri, Italy, hoteltragara.com

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