A foodie lover's guide to Padstow, Cornwall

Brilliant dishes, locally sourced produce and warm, welcoming venues — Padstow is a British hit, says Cathy Hawker
Padstow Townhouse
Cathy Hawker20 March 2020

The Mariners in Rock has a front-row view over the Camel Estuary where small boats bob on the tide and the sun shines over the fishing harbour of Padstow. Inside, however, after a six-mile walk through the dunes to Trebetherick and back, I’m ignoring the view to enthusiastically attack a menu of expertly prepared pub classics. There are plates of paprika-encrusted whitebait and a West Country take on croque monsieur, fat sausages piled on mustard mash, a fabulously spiced Goan curry and battered Cornish haddock with triple-cooked fries smothered in parmesan and truffle mayonnaise. Hearty, spirit-lifting pub food.

A foodie tour of North Cornwall has many starting places but I chose The Mariners, an institution for holidaymakers and post-A Level teenagers, including Princes William and Harry. Today it is under new management as the latest gem in the Padstow-Rock crown of Michelin-starred Paul Ainsworth and his wife Emma. They have artfully refurbed and updated, aiming to please both locals and foodie pilgrims.

Rock-star chefs are a feature of North Cornwall. There’s Nathan Outlaw (previously in charge at The Mariners) in Port Isaac, while the latest big opening is The Pig at Harlyn Bay, from Robin Hutson’s litter of hotels with A-grade food pedigree. But Padstow tops the bill thanks to the knockout reputation of two chefs: Ainsworth and Rick Stein.Stein, with his books and TV outings, needs no introduction. He made his name at The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow, which after 45 years remains a hot ticket. Diners book months ahead to sample oysters, finger-lickingly messy Singapore chilli crab and Dover sole. Stein is a legend from Cornwall to Australia, where he spends several months of the year, but Ainsworth is firmly rooted in Padstow. He arrived in 2005 after stints in London with Gary Rhodes and Gordon Ramsay. Along with The Mariners, his Cornish empire takes in Michelin-starred No 6, informal Rojano’s In the Square, super-indulgent six-suite Padstow Townhouse, and the Mahé Cookery School.

Eighteenth-century Padstow Townhouse is tranquil and elegant with roll-top baths, supersized beds and a home-from-home vibe. Hunter wellies and Dubarry boots line up in the hall, hot chocolate — “Paul’s Marvellous Medicine” — is delivered in a copper flask, and there’s always a selection of treats in The Pantry. Two minutes away, Ainsworth at No 6 is simply spectacular, serving a modern menu of mostly locally sourced produce, a delightfully informal and warm restaurant despite the Michelin star and four AA rosettes.

Calm and quiet in Padstow's harbour
Padstow Townhouse

Favourite dishes include ragu alla Bolognese, white crab with jack shell gravy and aged soy glazed duck, finishing with the iconic A Fairground Tale, an extraordinary three-stage dessert created in tribute to Paul’s late father.

Ainsworth’s sister Michelle manages Padstow Townhouse while wife Emma oversees the masterful interior design with Eve Cullen-Cornes (sister-in-law of chef Tom Kerridge). The Mahé Cookery School is named after the Seychelles island where his parents met.

Carb heaven at Paul Ainsworth's Padstow Townhouse
Padstow Townhouse

England’s finest foodie town? Padstow, so much more than a one-chef wonder, looks set for another decade at the top.

Details

Rooms at Padstow Townhouse from £280 per night, based on two people sharing, including breakfast. paul-ainsworth.co.uk

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