Casa de Mar, San Fruttuoso, Italy - review

Catch onto the simple life on Italy's idyllic Ligurian Coast, says Duncan Garwood
Dino Zanolin
Duncan Garwood17 October 2016

A tiny hamlet wedged into a cove on Italy’s Ligurian coast, San Fruttuoso is an idyllic spot. Heavily-wooded hills fan out from a shingle beach sandwiched between topaz waters and the Gothic facade of a medieval abbey.

The village is only accessible by boat or on foot, and once the last ferry has sailed out, it’s just you, the sea and a few hardy residents.

Here lies Casa de Mar, an old fisherman’s cottage that’s on the books of The Landmark Trust. The Trust recently took over the property, renovating it before its reopening in July.

In keeping with its former life, the Casa is a humble affair. Space is tight, but it comfortably sleeps four people in two bedrooms, with a modern kitchen, a sparkling white-tiled bathroom and a snug living room. With sunlight streaming in through sea-facing windows it feels bright and airy. A terrace and sliver of garden provide a charming space for al fresco dining.

Following the restoration, the cottage looks fresh but retains much of its character. Floors are tiled in grey slate, rooms are rustically furnished and the high beds come with polished wooden headboards. The white walls are unadorned save for nautical prints and watercolours, while a small selection of books promises great holiday reading.

Mod cons are largely absent — there’s no TV and Wi-Fi is only intermittently available on the nearby beach. But that’s part of the charm. This is an escape from the relentless connectivity of city life. No roads mean no shops in the vicinity, so you’ll need to bring your own provisions. You’ll find tea, coffee and a small supply of emergency basics waiting for you in the kitchen, however.

the terrace at Casa de Mar

Da Giovanni (00 39 0185 770047; dagiovanniristorante.com) is the local restaurant, a laid-back joint specialising in seafood. It’s not cheap — about €40 for a meal — but the spaghetti alle vongole (with fat, juicy clams, tomatoes and a kick of chilli) is wonderful and the seafront terrace is a glorious space.

The area

San Fruttuoso sits on the southern coast of the Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino, an unspoilt pocket of woodland and maquis-clad cliffs about 40km southeast of Genoa. Its isolation is a selling point but getting there is quite a hike. Get the train from Genoa’s Brignole station to Camogli and then pick up a boat for the sail down the coast.

The living room

Once ensconced at the Casa, the temptation is to stay put and relax, read a good book and have a swim. But if you can summon the energy for some sightseeing, the abbey is fascinating. In its earliest form it dates to the 8th century, when a group of clerics escaping Arab-controlled Spain built a monastery to house the bones of St Fructuosus. It has been modified several times, most notably between the 11th and 13th centuries, and in 1915 it was hit by floods. Conservation is ongoing as experts from FAI, the Italian National Trust, work to protect it from harsh natural conditions.

Some 4.5km east of San Fruttuoso, Portofino is the area’s most high profile attraction. To get there, you can catch one of the regular boats or take to the hills and walk.

A twin bedroom

The scenic route over Monte di Portofino is one of several hiking trails through the rugged park, which took me and my 11-year-old son about two hours to tackle. The first section involves a steep ascent through woods of holm oaks, olive trees, ferns and pines, but the path flattens out before its descent to Portofino.

Portofino itself is the archetypal jet-set hotspot, an ensemble of hillside gardens, designer boutiques and Pompeiian-red houses. Action is centred on Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta, the main harbourside square ringed by restaurants and bars offering aperitifs at €15 a shot, but there’s a castle to explore, Castello Brown (00 39 335 8371156; castellobrown.com), and lovely views to be had from the nearby lighthouse.

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Santa Margherita Ligure is another popular Riviera town with an elegant palm-fringed seafront and watersports in the harbour, accessible by bus or boat from Portofino.

Casa de Mar, San Fruttuoso, Camogli (01628 825925; landmarktrust.org.uk). Four nights self-catering from £692. Duncan Garwood stayed at Casa de Mar as a guest of The Landmark Trust.

Rooms: ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

Value: ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

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