How to see the other side of Benidorm

Unspoilt beaches, traditional tapas and a quaint old town — there’s more to the much-maligned high-rise resort than meets the eye, says Jessica Bateman
Jessica Bateman8 June 2018

We all know the word “Benidorm” has certain connotations — high-rises, hen weekends and portly men burnt to the shade of a gammon steak.

And that image isn’t totally inaccurate, as evidenced by the crowds of drunken Brits that flock to Levante beach every year. But away from the neon-lit strip, Spain’s third most-visited destination (second only to Barcelona and Madrid) has an overlooked side.

After all, the resort is also a weekend getaway for many Madrid residents too, and they’re not coming for karaoke and fry-ups. Here’s how to see the other side of Benidorm.

A model of sustainability

“Why did they build those ugly high-rise buildings next to that beautiful beach?” someone said when I mentioned my trip. The answer is surprising: to create a sustainable tourism industry. In a bid to preserve Benidorm’s surrounding countryside, city planners purposefully built upwards rather than outwards, housing a huge density of tourists while keeping the sprawl to a minimum.

This, along with the dry heat and natural sea breeze eliminating the need for air conditioning, has made Benidorm one of the most sustainable tourism destinations in Spain. In fact, it’s been estimated that just 13 Benidorms could house all of Spain’s annual visitors, with little environmental impact.

Natural beauty

The result of this upward building is a lot of very beautiful, unspoilt natural areas a stone’s throw from the main town. Just head east from Levante beach and you’ll find yourself in Sierra Helada nature park with its winding roads, fragrant pine trees, tucked-away beaches and stunning clifftop views. Rent an electric bike from Tao if you fancy exploring the mountain paths without exhausting your legs.

And, of course, there’s a reason why Benidorm attracts so many sun-seekers: its famed beaches. Huge, sandy and beautifully clean, and framed all around by dramatic mountains, it’s easy to see why the tourism industry mushroomed here. Levante may be the Brits’ favourite but Poniente, to the west, or Mal Pas Cove, offer a more relaxed vibe.

Getting active

Those clear seas offer plenty of snorkelling and scuba-diving. Combine them with a boat trip to the uninhabited Island of Benidorm, courtesy of Diving Stones — watch out for octopus and starfish. Or take a jetski tour with Carlos Water Sports.

If you want to travel further out and explore the picturesque villages, hiking routes and waterfalls dotted around the surrounding mountains, Marco Polo runs a variety of jeep safari tours as well as kayaking and paragliding.

Unexpected history

Back in the Fifties, the town assisted in a covert rebellion against the oppressive conservatism of dictator Franco. Bikinis were banned under the Right-wing regime but Benidorm’s mayor, Pedro Zaragoza, knew this wouldn’t help the town’s burgeoning tourism industry, so he persuaded Franco to lift the ban just for his district.

However, the surrounding Catholic villages were outraged, and declared Benidorm a land of sin. To quell their anger, local monks constructed a wooden cross atop the Sierra Helada mountain, looking out across the town and its bay. You can visit the cross — and take in the spectacular views — via the Sierra Helada nature park.

The town’s architectural history is well preserved in the quaint old town — by far the prettiest part of Benidorm — with its winding roads, white and blue tiling and charming lookout point carved into the cliff edge. An evening spent touring its tiny tapas and sangria bars makes a thoroughly enjoyable alternative to boozing on the strip.

Wining and dining

While there’s no shortage of burger, pizza and cod ’n’ chips joints feeding hungover stag parties, there’s also a growing foodie scene in Benidorm. Treat yourself to a multi-course tasting menu at either Magic Villa Venecia in the old town or Son de Mar on the edge of Levante beach. Both offer modern, creative cuisine, delicious local wines and sea views. For an evening dinner with a more distinctly Spanish flavour, try the rooftop Belvedere restaurant at Hotel Madeira.

There’s tapas galore, too. In the old town, Taperia Aurrera serves up Basque-fusion cooking, featuring delicious steak fillets which you can fry yourself on a hot plate, as well as picturesque pinchos. Wine lovers should head out to the Bodegas Mendoza winery, where you can tour the vineyards and take part in tastings — complete with plates of meats, cheeses and breads.

LGBT-friendly

Over the past few years Benidorm has become something of an LGBT hotspot, with the town’s gay village centred around the old town. Benidorm Pride, which takes place every September, is a fabulously flamboyant seven-day affair, featuring parades and parties till dawn.

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