The discerning drinker: Tuscan reds

At this week's press tasting held by the excellent Lea and Sandeman, I was struck by the placing of most of the Italian reds in the two more robust groups of wines - "earth and spice" and "full and rich".

True, they were indeed powerful wines, yet they've still got more freshness and balance than, frankly, most of the New World reds I taste.

Perfect, in fact, for a warm spring like this. The following are all Tuscan.

Sadly, there isn't a lot of Chianti worth drinking under £10 these days but Sovrano Chianti Riserva 2007 is a decent wine from a biggish producer, even if it is from outside the central Classico zone. This is fleshy and concentrated (M&S, £7.99).

Castello della Panaretta 2007, Chianti Classico Riserva is a definite step up - although still good value for a Chianti of this quality. This has lovely weight combined with freshness and a typical slight bitterness on the finish, from an independent producer in the far west of the Classico zone (M&S, £12.99).

But there are increasing numbers of good Tuscan
reds from outside the classic appellations too.

Tenuta Monteti Caburnio 2007, IGT Toscana is an idiosyncratic blend (cabernet sauvignon, alicante bouschet and merlot) from the Tuscan Maremma, the rapidly upcoming southern coastal area. It's beautifully balanced: it brims with bright cherry fruit, there's nice weight and a fair dollop of oak, but there's decent acidity too (Lea and Sandeman, £12.50 or £11.25 as part of a mixed case).

Lastly Fattoria Il Casalone "Poggio Colombi" 2007, IGT Toscana Maremma (Jeroboams, £10.95) is in a more international style, mostly from cabernet sauvignon. Again, it's from the Maremma, with solid structure and tannins but wonderfully supple and approachable.