Fergus Henderson's My London

Fergus Henderson: 'At midday I'll have hot sausages and half a pint of Guinness, which I find very steadying'
Hannah Nathanson10 April 2012

St. John chef Fergus Henderson eats white truffles with Giorgio Locatelli, drinks dry Martinis at Dukes Hotel and is scared of scooters...

Home is
Seven Dials in Covent Garden, where I've lived for 17 years with my wife Margot and our three children: Hector, 16, Owen, 14, and Francis, 11.

What advice would you give a tourist?
London isn't as gloomy as it sometimes looks; in fact, it's very chirpy. I would recommend a good lunch at Sweetings in the City. I proposed to my wife there. The Black Velvet puts you in the mood for romance.

Which five shops do you rely on?
Camisa, an Italian deli on Old Compton Street, where I buy most of our home food. I buy my shoes from Crockett & Jones – I found a shoe that I like there so I don't need to go anywhere else. I use Cutler and Gross for my glasses, which are vital; my local Oddbins for a good bottle of Marogne; and Neal's Yard Deli in Covent Garden for cheese.

Where are the best places to buy meat?
It's very sad as most butchers in London have disappeared, but there's still Lidgate's, a very expensive butcher in Holland Park.

What's the best meal you've ever had?
I've had quite a few good meals but a great memory is eating plankfish and white truffles with Giorgio Locatelli at Locanda Locatelli.

What's your earliest London memory?
Eating fried new potatoes at the old Italian restaurant, Colombino d'Oro, on Old Compton Street when I was little because they didn't make chips. They were the best fried potatoes ever.

What would be on your tombstone?
Way-hay!' Short and sharp.

What are your guilty pleasures?
I have quite a few but I try not to feel too guilty about them: Cadbury's Fruit & Nut, Toblerone mini bars, and a strong drink.

What are you most afraid of?
Riding on the back of my business partner Trevor's scooter.

What would you do as Mayor for the day?
I would encourage taking elevenses. Cake and Madeira would cheer everyone up.

What was the last album you bought?
I'm a terrible Luddite; ever since CDs, I haven't bought any music. I love the swish of records. Get Up Off That Thing' by James Brown always makes me get up off that thing.

What would you save from a fire?
The kids take forever to get out of the house so I would have to shoo them out.

What makes you laugh?
Jacques Tati films.

What makes you cry?
Films with animals that talk. I also cry at happy endings. I'm pretty soppy.

What are you up to at the moment?
We're in the process of opening a new St John hotel and restaurant in Chinatown this September. It's still a building site but there is hope. It's very exciting.

Who's your hero?
Isambard Kingdom Brunel because he built a railway to Bristol and wasn't defeated by it so he then built a boat to go to America. I think that shows such spunk.

Which is your favourite pub?
The Hope in Smithfield's meat market. At midday, I'll have hot sausages and half a pint of Guinness, which I find very steadying.

What are your favourite discoveries?
The Dry Martinis at Dukes Hotel on St James's Place.

What was the last show you saw?
The Michael Clark dance company at the Barbican, which was wonderful.

Where did you last go on holiday?

I went to the Hebrides for a month last summer with family and friends. It was lovely getting blown about by the wind. I was in New York, San Francisco and LA recently, where I was doing cooking demonstrations. Last Christmas, I went to the South of France for two nights with my wife, which was short but sweet.

stjohnrestaurant.co.uk

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