Stella McCartney ruffles up a Seventies revival

10 April 2012

It was lampshades at dawn at the Stella McCartney show in Paris today, with a collection that had more flounce to the ounce than your average Parisian boudoir.

Russian model and mother of three Natalia Vodianova made a rare appearance on the catwalk swathed in a ruffle-shouldered dress with a jaunty lampshade skirt.

Ruffles also perked up the hem of a long Fortuny pleated dress, and trimmed the top of a short, strapless cocktail dress.

Hand-painted roses on fuchsia, red and bright orange silk lent a Seventies feel to the collection that brought to mind Mike Leigh's cult film Abigail's Party. Ice and lemon, babes?

Far more wearable for the average girl were the clothes at the beginning of the show. McCartney is a fine tailor, and there were jacket styles for every occasion life might present.

A collarless jacket in pale cream linen looked effortless for work, while a longer length jacket with thin lapels was worn with shorts for that oh-so-fashionable "you've forgotten your bottom half" look.

Flounces and ruffles made an appearance on a cream jacket in shantung silk, cascading down the side of one collar.

The jackets were worn with slouchy trousers cropped to the ankle, either in contrasting cream or striking kingfisher blue silk.

The Seventies feel returned with a series of A-line skirts.

A denim skirt with buttons down the back fell to the knee and was worn with a simple white blouse, while a brown skirt came with a burnt orange pinafore top. Bib-fronted pinafore dresses provided a fresh dress shape for spring.

Accessories are another McCartney strong point and have done much to contribute to the 70 per cent profit rise recently announced by her parent company, Gucci Group.

McCartney's refusal to work with leather makes her a treasure in the world of luxury fashion.

Her shoes and bags do not suffer in the style stakes from being animal-friendly, and for spring, bags made from bamboo looked jaunty and fresh.

Stella's friend Gwyneth Paltrow sat front row, along with her father Sir Paul, brother James and husband, Alasdhair Willis.

Later today, McCartney's rival Phoebe Philo will return to the catwalk after a three-year hiatus to present her first collection for Celine.

The two women, friends since college, fell out when Philo took over from McCartney as head of Chloe.

Those who have always believed Philo to be the more talented will no doubt enjoy making comparisons between them once more.

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