Phoebe Philo's serene Celine is the toast of Paris Fashion Week

Elegant, wearable and achingly cool, Philo proves once again that great clothes speak for themselves
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Karen Dacre1 October 2012

In order to perfectly comprehend what a modern woman needs from her wardrobe, an in-depth analysis of Phoebe Philo's brainwaves is surely required. The Celine designer is one of very few women on the planet who is able to deliver on such terms season after season and, not surprisingly, is far from forthcoming where revealing her secrets are concerned. In fact, while many Paris Fashion Week designers are happy to wax lyrical on their inspirations and motivations, Philo's approach is to keep schtum. This afternoon, having just presented her latest collection for the house she has fronted since 2010, she gave little away. "This collection felt like a journey" she said, "it was about beauty and friendship. It was about being kind to one another".

Her words, spoken softly, were cryptic. While the fruits of Philo's labour are there to be worn and loved, our understanding of them is irrelevant. At least, it is to their designer. Which is perhaps, exactly how it should be. There was after all, very little on the catwalk today that required explanation.

From perfectly fitting wide-leg silk trousers to blouson silk tops which were knotted at the front and draped with metallic leather accents, this was a supreme offering that offered elegant, wearable, achingly cool clothes to anyone who is lucky enough to afford them.

The collection was deliciously tactile. Floating chiffon sat next to super soft fur while silk rippled as the models walked. For Philo, who gave birth to her third child earlier this year, this sense of comfort seemed wholly appropriate. The act of nesting and gentleness had clearly been on her mind.

Dusty pink pyjama pants continued this notion as did her accessory offering for next spring.

A series of rubber pool-shoes lined with fur in hot, vivacious shades of lime green and fuchsia served as a wonderful, playful surprise in this tasteful, pared back collection.

But it was Celine's hero pieces - the perfect black trousers, the sharp-sleeveless coat and the buttery leather jacket - that served as the greatest highlights.

It was them that reminded us of something Philo will never forget: great clothes speak for themselves.

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