Paris blooms: the lastest looks hot off the French catwalk

The Indian summer has already perked up everyone’s spirits and French Fashion Week has done the rest. As the Parisian shows hit their stride, Karen Dacre analyses the latest looks hot off the catwalk
1 October 2013

Christian Dior

“The collection is the idea of twisting, turning and pushing Dior,” said its creative director Raf Simons ahead of his show in the Musée Rodin. And it WAS twisted — beautifully so. Stomach-flipping electric beats and a backdrop of late summer blooms on heavy duty scaffolding launched a show in which the designer married the natural world with an artificial one. Multi-layered shorts were his stroke of genius, as were the serene floral prints that found a home in every nook. This was a fashion mash-up that was as brave as it was beautiful: proof Raf Simons’s Christian Dior is now in full bloom.

Givenchy

Worlds collided when TV star Kim Kardashian sat among fashion snobriety on the front row at Givenchy but the real collision took place on the catwalk. Japanese and African cultures were fused for dramatic effect. Silk kimonos and seductive jersey gowns lent a dark, seductive mood, while Riccardo Tisci’s signature print gave way to expert draping. Givenchy’s latest must-have chunky flat sandal, pictured left, is already topping every fashion editor’s wish list for next summer.

Chloé

If you like your dresses light and breezy and want your summer wardrobe to ooze the sort of traveller chic that only the poshest Brits abroad are able to muster, you’ll love Clare Waight Keller’s latest collection. Cut from metallic mesh and delicate broderie anglaise, hers are not the sort of high summer gowns you’re going to want to get Ambre Solaire on. Accordion pleat skirts are also key for Chloé girls next season.

Saint Laurent

In his first two seasons at Yves Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane seemed intent on dressing a luxed-up Camden indie kid. Those who had hoped for more of the same from his third season have not been left wanting. Pin-sharp Pete Doherty-inspired tailoring — loved by the young and affordable only by the very wealthy — gave this collection its climax and showcased Slimane’s skill as a tailor. For evening came Eighties-inspired cocktail dresses with serious frill.

Céline

For any designer, courage is crucial. Phoebe Philo has it in shedloads. Waging war on her own brand of decade-defining minimalism, Philo ripped up the rule book with a collection that exploded with colour and detail. “It was a collage of ideas,” she said. Thanks to tapestry coats, raffia-fringed bags and brushstroke prints, the Céline girl looks complicated next summer. But she is still the one we all want to be.

Balenciaga

The pretentious train of thought among fashion purists is that a designer must be both revolutionary and respectful to succeed. But the real trick is knowing how to sell clothes. Luckily for Balenciaga, Alexander Wang has the selling part mastered. His sophomore collection combined Balenciaga architecture with wearable Wang signatures. Luxe silk shorts are certain to entice leggy women to the label, while the mature Balenciaga faithful will delight in a near perfect pant shape.

Balmain

Despite a cult status which demands that a media circus worthy of the X Factor sets up camp outside its show, Balmain is a tough nut to crack — namely because it’s insanely expensive. But the label is doing its best to get us all on board by reimagining fashion icons through the ages. Vintage Chanel meets Clueless’s Cher Horowitz in its latest offering with dogtooth-check skirt suits, pinstripe pinafores and chambray denim taking centre stage.

Acne

A Swedish fishermen’s shanty was an appropriate prologue to an Acne collection for which typically marine workwear served as inspiration. Creative director Jonny Johansson offers up shredded wool jumpers and pea coats to Acne customers next season. An anchor motif, seen on tailored shorts and a trouser suit, looks certain to become a major hit with the brand’s cult following — expect to see it copied all over the high street.

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