Fashion label DKNY, a favourite with Rita Ora and Cara Delevingne, has abandoned its youthful celebrity following in favour of a fresh start.
Now in the charge of Dao Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne - the talents behind New York label Public School - the brand, which accounts for 80% of Donna Karan's business, is going after a mature, cosmopolitan consumer.
Unveiling their debut collection for the brand at New York Fashion Week yesterday, Chow and Osborne sought to reinvent the one-time streetwear brand with a collection which offered deconstructed tailoring and classics with a twist.
DKNY at New York Fashion Week
Reimagining workwear, the duo showcased pinstripe pinafores, slashed at the side to reveal pleated tennis skirts and oversized jackets, presented over classic white t-shirts.
Fine gauge knit dresses and open back sweaters worn with chunky ankle boots also served as a mainstay for the designer who are known for their androgynous aesthetic.
A series of silk slip dresses in navy blue and black were undoubtedly the collection's most beautiful inclusions. This was everyday utilitarian design, presented with a cool - occasionally predictable, edge.
The show, staged within the basement floor of the new World Trade Centre, bore little resemblance to the celebrity circus that was the DKNY days of old.
Instead it marked a turning point for the brand which is now in the charge of former Apple creative director Hector Muelas - drafted in earlier this year to manage its reinvention.
Muelas, alongside Chow and Osborne, is intent on going after a older and undoubtedly higher paying customer with a fashion label that delivers wardrobe staples not screaming statements.
And while the result may not have been the most pulse raising on the schedule, it may well succeed in breathing a new lease of life into one of New York's best loved brands.
