London Fashion Week Men's: Trend Report

Karen Dacre and Emma McCarthy unearth a few sartorial truths from London Fashion Week Men’s
Kent & Curwen
Kent & Curwen

Don’t look back in anger

There’s nothing wrong with stepping back in time, especially if it inspires a new outlook. Daniel Kearns’ latest collection for Kent & Curwen took its lead from post-First World War gents, fusing classic codes of English sportswear (as is the K&C way) with PJ Wodehouse and the Gentleman’s Club. For the new man’s wardrobe this means covetable military coats and natty knits worn with printed cravats. It’s little wonder business backer David Beckham was shopping from the front row.

Suit yourself

Craig Green 
Rex Features

There’s nothing conventional about next autumn’s tailoring offering — which is apt, given that there’s nothing conventional about menswear darling Craig Green. The designer, who also unveiled T-shirts in sweetie wrapper plastics and a series of experimental half-and-half parkas, offered up an original take on a British classic. Expect nylon belted jackets and Green’s namesake shade to be major next season.

Style is a state of mind

Charles Jeffrey
Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

At the most hotly anticipated show on this weekend’s schedule, Saturday night’s headlining act was a masterclass in fashion’s ability to rejoice in difference. Club kid turned designer Charles Jeffrey enlisted his usual collective of performers and drag artists to unveil a collection of shrunken suiting and kilt mash-ups staged in a “broken Neverland” featuring Lost Boys and the frenzied ruffians of Lord of the Flies. His message: write your own fairytale — and have a good time doing it.

Boiler room rules

 Robyn Lynch
WireImage

All-in-ones and nylon trackies remain an off-duty prerequisite for men determined to stick with the Russian football fan look. As part of his debut collection on schedule, shown as part of Fashion East, Robyn Lynch offered up head-to-toe streetwear looks which came with a formal twist. Relying on head-to-toe colour, the designer set out plans for a new look man that wears his trainers in boardroom — or at least to work. Team with a baseball hat if turning heads is your aim.

Tied to the Nineties

Liam Hodges

Along with well-gelled hair spikes of which Gareth Gates would be approve, Liam Hodges’ latest homage to the Nineties centred around a collaboration with Ellesse — accordingly, sportswear was paramount. Shellsuits, skater shorts and cargo pants all played a starring role, alongside tie-dye jeans worn with hand-me-down-oversized rugby shirts — it’s a signature look that Hodges is growing into nicely.

Gender is dead

Alex Mullins

Anyone harbouring the archaic idea that menswear is just for boys is not on the same wavelength as Alex Mullins, who chose a female cast to showcase his dynamic new collection. Highlights for men and women were a shocking pink blouse which came teamed with white jeans and stomping cowboy boots. Dreamy stuff, whatever your state of mind.

We’ll still pipe for slippers

Edward Crutchley

When Edward Crutchley closed his show on Saturday he did so with comfort in mind. As the ultimate compliment to a show of lounge suits and embroidered velvet capes, models took a final turn on the catwalk sporting novelty slippers including cuddly ducks and crocodiles. Were these unwanted Christmas gifts or Instagram bait? Who cares? You’d be mad not to want a pair.

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