London Fashion Week: Christopher Kane delights fans with groundbreaking show on mega Monday

Christopher Kane lived up to the hype at London Fashion Week today with a brilliant collection filled with innovative techniques.

Taking the setting of an abattoir as inspiration, he fused codes from the luxury market with a determination to break design barriers.

Ruched nylon served as detail on heavy duty shoes and as a trim on dresses. It also worked in memorable contrast with rich luxurious fur.

But it was the eveningwear that gave this show its edge. Cocktail dresses with helter skelter sleeves looked certain to delight the loyal Kane fans, while masterfully cut trousers also stood out.

Kane’s offering topped the bill on “mega Monday”, a day which promises to be among the greatest in London Fashion Week’s history. Burberry and Tom Ford are also showing collections today.

It followed a triumphant show for Scottish designer Jonathan Saunders, who closed LFW’s third day yesterday with a collection that was big on colour — and even bigger on ideas.

Saunders succeeded where so many London designers before him had failed with a collection of oversized coats, circular dresses and cutaway skirts that married innovative design with a dedication to producing clothes that translate commercially.

A careful balance was struck throughout this show, specifically with delicate and solid textures.

He paired bias-cut silk skirts with marl knits, oversized wool coats with barely-there printed slip dresses, and structured leather bomber jackets — sure to be one of the first items snapped up when the collection goes on sale — with narrow pencil skirts.

Other eveningwear options were equally balanced. Liquid silver Lurex and shimmering sequin fabrics were teamed with a relaxed ribbed jumper or curly mohair jacket, while A-line day dresses were weighted down with heavy glitter hems.

Along with Kane and Roksanda Ilincic, Saunders is proof of London Fashion Week’s ability to produce cutting edge designers with the knowledge required to build a brand that sells.