Knitwits, natty suits and a frill a minute... the weird and wacky London men's collections

 
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9 January 2013

Britain's blossoming menswear scene is a game of two halves. In evidence at London’s men’s fashion week is a harmonious coalition which relies on the established institutions of Savile Row and the experimental creativity of the new establishment to survive.

At one end of the spectrum is the latest collection from extraordinary knitwear brand Sibling, unveiled yesterday.

Revered by the fashion industry for its tireless dedication to producing playful clothes which are both exciting and innovative, the British grown brand unveiled a collection of supersized chunky-knit scarves which concealed the faces of the models and giant mittens which bore the label's signature leopard print.

The handiwork of design trio Sid Bryan, Joe Bates and Cozette McCreery and styled by fashion royalty Katie Grand, Sibling - which is stocked at a host of London's department stores and at online menswear mecca Mr Porter - is proof that today's more adventurous male customer wants more from his wardrobe.

Northern Irish designer JW Anderson, who unveiled his collection this morning, has taken this sensibility to the extreme. Inspired by bourgeois kinkyness and boudoir perversity, the award winning designer, whose business is among the capital's most exciting new fashion brands, unveiled a subversive, jaw-dropping collection of ruffle-trimmed shorts, knee-high patent boots and strapless tabard tops.

The designer relied on technical fabrics commonly associated with rainwear to produce his latest offering which was punctuated with wearable woollen coats in peach and cobalt.

Having arrived on the British fashion scene in 2008, Dalston-based Anderson has created a commercially successful label. Last year his innovative yet carefully thought through approach won him the opportunity to design a collection for high-street chain Topshop. This year, having caught the attention of Donatella Versace, he will create a collection for Versace's diffusion line Versus.

Anderson's brand, loved by Vogue editors and department store buyers alike, is proof that these days, British menswear is about so much more than grey suits.

This isn't to say the tailoring offering on offer this week has been uninspiring. Far from it, in fact.

Reminding menswear consumers of the capital's role as the global leader in tailoring and of its history in the field, Richard James - the Prime Minister's suit maker of choice - was among the biggest names to feature on the schedule yesterday. The tailor unveiled a polished collection of wearable two-pieces and sharply-cut overcoats. Inspired by London's many green spaces the show, aptly entitled Parklife, showcased autumnal shades and a subtle rabbit and duck motif which appeared on beanie hats and chunky knit scarves. A series of elegant lounge suits, certain to delight James's loyal customer base of city gents with money to burn, were worn with velvet bow ties and crystal embellished slippers.

James was joined by the more moderately priced Oliver Spencer who charmed with swinging pea-coats that would do much to appeal to your average man in the street.

Alexander McQueen, which made its first appearance on the capital's menswear schedule yesterday, unveiled a collection which straddled both weird and wearable aspects of British menswear with ease.

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