Paris fashion: Electric Dior... exquisite new look from Raf Simons takes Couture house back to its best

 
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3 July 2012

At what was the most highly anticipated show the fashion industry had seen in decades, Raf Simons unveiled his first collection for Christian Dior today.

The excitement in the air was palpable as industry insiders such as Marc Jacobs, Natalia Vodianova and Anna Wintour took their seats around a catwalk lined with vibrant lilac and white irises.

But a question hung in the air. Could Simons pull it off? It had after all been only a matter of months since the Belgian-born designer left his previous post at Jil Sander to take up where the disgraced John Galliano left off at Dior.

Almost as soon as the first model took to the catwalk clad in an exquisitely cut wool tuxedo bar jacket which she wore teamed with linear cigarette trousers it was clear that no one need have worried: the house of Dior was back to its best.

This collection, which while highly respectful of the heritage of the Christian Dior legacy, breathed new life into the house which had suffered in recent years.

Taking Dior's iconic "new look" silhouette as a starting point, Simons set about the task of updating it for a contemporary Couture client. Dresses layered over slim black trousers were intricately detailed with precise beading and embroidery while strapless gowns demonstrated the designer's masterful skill as a tailor. Feathers, luxurious cashmere and ruffled organza lent this collection texture.

The palette on the catwalk was as electric as the atmosphere surrounding it. Citrusy hues of zesty orange and lime were offset with earthy tones of burgundy and grey. Pastel pink, soft lilac and dreamy shades of blue also featured. Among the many stand out pieces on offer was a powder blue strapless gown which had been beautifully embellished in shimmering crystals. A knee-length day dress cut from vivacious fuchsia pink duchesse satin also stood out.

"Mr Dior was a supreme architect of pattern" said Simons, paying tribute to the cuts and silhouettes on which he had focused his debut offering. "He would make what he did human for the wearer".

It is this ability to create clothes that women not only want to marvel at but wear too that binds Simons with the Dior house. At Jil Sander, it was Simons' knack for combining pared-down minimalism with grown up Hollywood glamour which won him critical acclaim. Now, with a new era for Christian Dior off to a flying start, the future for the house looks brighter than it has done in years.

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