Antonio Berardi showcases a softer side to his strong workwear silhouettes at London Fashion Week

The designer is revered for his flattering tailoring and figure enhancing eveningwear
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Hannah Rochell18 September 2017

It was a weekend of high octane shows from Milanese visitors Versus Versace and Emporio Armani, but this morning was the turn of an Italian designer who has long made London Fashion Week his home.

Antonio Berardi kicked off the proceedings for Monday’s back-to-back schedule of shows, an impressive day which also sees the likes of LFW heavyweights Christopher Kane, Roksanda and Erdem showing their hotly anticipated collections.

The designer, who is revered for his flattering tailoring and figure enhancing eveningwear, didn't disappoint with a glamorous catwalk collection, which was vamped up by pairing every look with patent leather lace-up boots in black, red or white.

Trousers were shown in almost every shape imaginable; cropped flares, skinny cigarettes, daringly transparent and sharp wide legs with crisp front pleats all made an appearance.

Jeff Moore

Jackets too were varied, and included blazers nipped in at the waist with contemporary drawstring corseting, loose funnel neck anorak styles and a new take on the classic black tailcoat which featured billowing fabric that was part train, part cape.

The strong workwear silhouettes that opened the show were complimented by the predominantly black, red and white colour palette, while the traditional Prince of Wales check was updated with flushes of olive green and rose gold which swirled around tailoring for a more feminine take on office wear.

In addition to catering for the city woman, there was a softer side to this collection, namely in the use of fabrics more associated with country life.

Broderie Anglaise was fashioned into dresses, skirts and trouser suits, the latter of which were particularly striking, while soft navy and white gingham gave the humble shirt dress an update.

Handkerchief hems - a trend seen elsewhere at many other shows this fashion week - also played a big part, from subtle tops styled long over tailored trousers to a standout look-at-me skirt lined entirely in scarlett whose asymmetric hem flashed a peek at the red patent boots underneath. Models were also decorated with Henna designs on their hands.

Berardi’s show notes were brief but political this season, and were simply a quote from Franklin D. Roosevelt. “Remember, remember always, that all of us, and you and I especially, are descended from immigrants and revolutionists.” In a city full of both homegrown and international designers, this certainly felt like a fitting sentiment.

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