Antonio Berardi combines boardroom with boudoir at London Fashion Week by fusing tailoring, delicate silk and trailing marabou feathers

The show marked the opening of 'super Monday', the most action packed day on the schedule
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Karen Dacre19 September 2016

Antonio Berardi went back to the cutting room floor to create his latest spring/summer collection, unveiled at London Fashion Week this morning.

Citing ideas previously discarded or forgotten as this show's starting point, the Italian gave today's action packed schedule a lilac dawn with an offering of Paisley print brocade and purple blouson sleeves.

Fusing his signature tailoring delicate silk underlay and trailing marabou feathers, Berardi sought to combine the boardroom with the boudoir.

In the collection notes the designer described it as a "suspension between two states" and it was, with feminine silks and splays of glistening beadwork juxtaposed with no nonsense trouser suits.

Tim P. Whitby/Getty

A series of tiered a-line slip dresses, crafted from heavy fabrics and trimmed with leather, confirmed this idea.

Just as Berardi indicated before the show today, the ideas on offer today were not new concepts but remodelled versions of previous points of inspiration.

This meant that few creative boundaries were broken. Instead, Berardi focussed on his signature silhouettes - bustle waists and corset panelling played a key role. He also extended his remit with colour.

While there was much in this collection of embellished mini skirts, flowing blouson sleeve gowns and plunging cocktail dresses to appreciate, Berardi's loyal following will undoubtedly miss the sculpted little black dresses on which the designer built his label.

A pleasant reminder of those moments of brilliance came via the series of floor length harness gowns which closed the show.

The show marked the opening of "super Monday" and the most action packed day on the fashion week schedule. Later this afternoon Christopher Kane will unveil his latest collection ahead of Burberry which showcases its first combined women's and menswear show this evening.

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