A season for anoraks: the 10 trends from Paris that you'll need to know about next season

From reworked dad shirts to the ski jacket that’s inspiring hysteria, here is next season's style forecast

1. Go tell it on the mountain

Not since Phoebe Philo’s 2008 Céline debut have we been so excited about an anorak.

In a covetable take on the humble ski jacket, Demna Gvasalia (learn to pronounce his name now) offers streetwear coolly repurposed for the 21st-century consumer.

Think Helly Hansen. In bold block colours, this anorak will spawn a million copycats, as will the ski pants it was presented with (are you writing this down?).

Balenciaga AW16 (catwalking.com)
Catwalking.com

A new Balenciaga logo, printed on the back of the collar, is just one of the many great things about this jacket.

We’re less excited to learn its price tag.

2. Welcome to trench town

Phoebe Philo’s skill is to take a non-event and transform it into the thing you want the most in the world. It is this that makes her the most copied in Paris.

Next autumn, it is the humble trench coat that is adorned with her magic touch.

Céline AW16 (catwalking.com)
Catwalking.com

Among the most beautiful additions to a collection of silk slip dresses and bootcut flares, the Céline trench is cut loose and long for a women with places to go.

The raincoat was also given new life at Balenciaga.

3. If you like it then you better put a corset on it

Prepare to be reacquainted with your waist this autumn.

What was suggested in Milan by Miuccia Prada was confirmed by Jonathan Anderson in Paris as the Dalston-based designer cinched in airy dresses with waspish leather corsets at Loewe.

Of course, as with everything Anderson turns his hand to, the emphasis was not on overt sex appeal but a more complicated approach to femininity.

Loewe AW16 (catwalking.com)
Catwalking.com

The result was bodices in patent black and gold that were worn like armour.

For a modern way to wear it next season, we suggest fastening yours as an oversized belt over a big old coat.

4. The thigh’s the limit

Sorry, ankle boots - there’s another staple shoe in town.

As seen at Balmain, Aquazzurra, Roger Vivier, Vêtements - the list goes on - over-the-knee boots that stretched up to meet micro hemlines were ubiquitous on the Paris catwalks.

Balmain AW16

Step away from convention by wearing yours flat and wide (à la Vêtements and Acne) or try layering over trousers.

Or make like Kim, Kendall and ko in these butter suede beauties by Balmain.

5. Velvet is the new denim

Bear with me here. You see while in recent seasons a widely cut jean and an oversized silk blouse have become no-brainer dinner party attire, next winter velvet in sumptuous black and navy is where dressed-up but not overdressed evening attire is at.

Stella McCartney AW16 (catwalking.com)
Catwalking.com

While at Roland Mouret and Giambattista Valli this meant body-skimming cocktail dresses, the coolest way to wear your velvet is with flat white shoes and a crisp white shirt.

Or as Stella McCartney suggested, on an oversized Puffa coat.

6. Roll-necks 2.0

Along with a newfound appreciation for décolletage, the takeaway from this season’s Dior show is that the roll-neck is to be reborn next season with almost every key player in Paris trying its hand at the trend.

Dior AW16

At Dior, this meant a new roll-neck collar hybrid created by slashing the front of a turtle neck while in Gvasalia’s Balenciaga showcase this saw ornate collared sweaters detailed with rows of shimmering crystals.

To rock your roll neck like a pro, team with a brocade evening gown (see cocktail layering below).

7. Dad shirts for cool kids

We’ve raided Granny’s closet for her pleated skirts and rifled through Mum’s wardrobe for her high-waisted jeans from 1994, now the fashion pack must plunder Dad’s clobber to keep abreast of next season’s trends.

Vetements AW16 (catwalking.com)
Catwalking.com

Not literally, of course, but via Vêtements - the hottest label on the planet right now - which took a simple oversized shirt and turned it into the cult item of AW16.

Choose between pinstripe or classic Oxford blue and remember if it looks four times too big, you’ve got it just right. Ironing optional.

8. Go hell for leather

There’s more to life than a pair of blue jeans, or so Chloé’s Clare Waight Keller has decided having swapped her signature denim for a heavy dose of leather.

Citing a “modern motocross attitude” as the starting point for her autumn/winter offering, Keller went big on skin-tight cropped trousers, A-line skirts and dungarees, all of which were crafted from skin, not selvedge.

Chloé AW16

A leather boiler suit - which also came in scarlet at Acne - will feature high on shopping lists for the more adventurous customer.

9. The march of the skinny zebra

Primrose Hill shoppers who once flocked to Isabel Marant to keep them in skinny jeans have a new item to lust over come September.

Witness the zebra-print trouser.

Isabel Marant AW16 (catwalking.com)
Catwalking.com

Winning immediate cult status for being instantly recognisable, expect copycat versions of these babies to spring up across the high street very soon.

But Regent’s Park residents take note - wear to your next London Zoo trip at your peril.

10. Cocktail dressing has many layers

After-dark dress codes should be tackled with a more is more approach next season.

As executed beautifully by Belgian designer Dries Van Noten, autumn’s cocktail dressing rule takes layering out of the comfort zone and into cocktail hour.

Dries Van Noten AW16 (catwalking.com)
Catwalking.com

Team silk shirts with slip dresses, brocade tunics with trousers and decorative lattice camis with tuxedo jackets.

Similar tactics were put into practice at Rochas - which layered embroidered tulle dresses under sequin coats - and Lanvin, where crushed velvet blouses peeped out from beneath ballgowns.

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