Douglas Blyde has a bitter taste in his mouth (and likes it)

ES Magazine’s drinks columnist discovers the joy of bitter drinks at Amaro
Amaro
Douglas Blyde7 February 2022

We begin life averse to bitterness: ostensibly as a defense mechanism to ward us away from swallowing poisonous plants. For those fortunate enough to learn to love bitterness later on, it brings edge, definition and complexity to the epicurean experience. In drinks such as the Negroni, bitterness tends to slow the drinker down, expanding the moment.

Amaro’, which is Italian for bitter, is the name of an expertly calibrated new bar which celebrates the beauty in the bitter. Envisioned by Elon Soddu, former Head Mixologist of The Savoy, the handsome interior of granite and onyx and a suave team with pedigree confers the feel of a five-star hotel bar to what was once a 24-hour convenience shop here on High Street Kensington.

The Amaro Bar, High Street Kensington
Amaro

To set the scene, Soddu serves Fernet Branca, which might seem an initially malevolent drink to the uninitiated, from an extremely rare jeroboam. Fernet also appears in one of a dozen cocktails. Despite the name, the ‘Caramel Punch’ is translucent. Along with lime, the Fernet brings authority to this seamless collage of brandy, dulce de leche and coconut milk, served over sculptural ice cut with a bandsaw.

The Caramel Punch
Amaro

Another drink is the ‘Verdant’ which combines celery bitters with a sage, nettle and tea scented aperitif, sake, gin and brightening pineapple. Vitalising and slightly sparkling, it evokes upscale Bitter Lemon with a long finish suggesting back of the envelope bitterness in a good way.

The Verdant
Amaro

Then there is the ‘Innocente’, a non-alcoholic take on the Michelada born of a collaboration with the very decent, alcohol-free Lucky Saint beer brand. Tomato juice pepped with chilli, ginger and soy gets a squeeze of lime, a dash of alcohol-free dry vermouth, and a top of hoppy lager. The result has surprising heft.

The Innocente
Amaro

Discover Amaro at 15 Kensington High St, W8

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