Why I live in Earl’s Court: Darjeeling Express founder Asma Khan on her evolving, multicultural London area

Chef Asma Khan has seen Earl’s Court evolve in the 30 years she has lived there. Here’s why a strong sense of connection still remains
Asma Khan
Chef Asma Khan has called Earl’s Court home for 30 years and counting
Daniel Hambury/Stella Pictures Ltd
Emma Magnus3 March 2023

I live on Old Brompton Road in Earl’s Court. I first saw the house, which belongs to my husband, in 1991, when I moved to this country. We both moved in in 1996. The area has changed a lot - it’s like you can carbon-date what’s been happening in the world from looking at Earl’s Court.

In the early days, there were lots of gay bars, Australian backpackers, big houses owned by families from the Middle East. Over time, the Australians disappeared and the gay bars closed. The big houses became flats. We had a huge French community, but after Brexit, that has changed.

People come and go, but there is this feeling of identifying with the city, and with Earl’s Court. Being citizens of London, we feel we are all connected, because everybody comes from somewhere else. It’s a real melting pot.

Melting pot: Earl’s Court locals feel connected, because everybody comes from somewhere else, says Asma
Matt Writtle

Eating and drinking

One of my favourite places is an Egyptian eatery on Earl’s Court Road called Cleopatra - very predictable name. I’m completely addicted to their fresh juice.

Everything I’ve eaten there is amazing, but their baby chicken on the fire is just beautiful. They have fabulous staff and it’s always full of Egyptian people, even from outside London, who come to eat their speciality dishes.

Cleopatra restaurant on Earl’s Court Road has a loyal following for its speciality dishes
Matt Writtle

There’s a Lebanese bakery —actually a restaurant— called Orjowan on Kenway Road. They make Manakish, a Lebanese bread with za’atar, cheese and mince on top. They have a stone oven and they bake it fresh for you. It’s unbelievable.

As you walk down Old Brompton Road, you have all these amazing French bakeries. The one I love is Aux Merveilleux de Fred. They bake fresh brioche all day. A crowd gathers at 45 minutes past the hour, when it comes straight out of the oven. Then you wait for 10 to 15 minutes because it’s too hot to handle. Oh my God, it’s so good.

Aux Merveilleux de Fred bakery is a go-to for freshly-baked brioche
Matt Writtle

Where I work out

To be honest, I don’t exercise at all. There are gyms, but it ain’t my style. I can tell you about all the places to go and eat.

To commune with nature

One of the best open spaces is Brompton Cemetery. I taught both my kids how to cycle there because it’s safe, but it’s a proper park. If you go in the evening you’ll find lots of frantic, out-of-condition fathers trying to teach their kids how to cycle too. It’s a whole community thing.

Old Brompton Cemetery is one of the area’s best open spaces, and where Asma taught her children to cycle
Matt Writtle

I walk there a lot. I find it very peaceful - and also fascinating. My first degree was in history and you find a lot of interesting people buried there. I love reading all the headstones and finding out who they were. Of course, you can walk to Hyde Park, but everyone knows about that. This is a nice place to explore.

Grocery shopping

North End Road Market still has an old-fashioned London street market vibe
Matt Writtle

I go to North End Road Market. It’s still an old-fashioned London street market - lots of people shouting out prices; lots of haggling. If you go later in the evening, they start giving you stuff for free instead of throwing it away - especially bananas. African, Asian, local British vegetables - you can get it all.

There are little shops to buy meat and fish there, too. You can do your entire grocery shop there. I prefer to do that than get stuck in a supermarket.

For a culture fix

Asma’s favourite second-hand bookshop is World’s End on King’s Road
Matt Writtle

In my early days when I didn’t know how to cook, I would go to World’s End bookshop on King’s Road. It’s a second-hand bookshop with an eclectic mix of books. And it’s very cheap.

The Everyman on King’s Road is nice - big chairs, very comfortable. It feels like an old-fashioned cinema hall.

Getting around

Our public transport options are excellent. Earl’s Court station has three lines and we’ve got a great bus network.

From my house, I can walk to three stations in around 10 minutes. Most people walk around the area. We don’t have a car - there’s nowhere to park.

Dream street

I live on it. Old Brompton Road is this long road which goes from South Kensington to Earl’s Court. I’m walking distance from a multicultural, buzzing bazaar, but I’m also walking distance from Harrods.

Old Brompton Road runs from South Kensington to Earl’s Court
Matt Writtle

Something you only see in your area

Many of the old Georgian houses have bricked-up windows because of the window tax that was in effect between 1696 and 1851. Many of them are still bricked up. I always think it’s really odd about this place.

What’s the catch?

It’s too close to the Chelsea stadium. If there’s a match, it’s unpleasant: there’s lots of police around; the Tube stations are stuffed with people, many of them very drunk; the roads are closed; the traffic is horrible. It’s intimidating.

Your area in three words

We are Londoners.

Asma Khan is the founder of the all-female Darjeeling Express, which opened at its new home in Kingly Court in January. Her Indian family food cookbook, Ammu, was released last year.

Schools

Ashburnham Community School, Kensington Primary Academy and Servite RC are three of six outstanding primary schools in the area. For secondaries, The London Oratory School and Chelsea Academy are the top-rated choices.

What it costs

Buying in Earl’s Court

Average flat price: £1,178,470

Average property price: £1,330,050

Renting in Earl’s Court

Average flat price, pcm: £2,930

Average house price, pcm: £5,590

Source: Hamptons & Land Registry

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