Why I live in Elephant & Castle: activist Peter Tatchell on his vibrant, changing south London area

Human rights activist Peter Tatchell  has lived here for 45 years. He tells Emma Magnus what the area has gained — and lost
Human rights activist Peter Tatchell has lived in Elephant and Castle for 45 years.
ES Composite / Daniel Lynch
Emma Magnus31 July 2023

I moved to Elephant and Castle in 1978. I had been living in north London and was made homeless, so I applied to the Greater London Authority for a property under their “Hard to Let” scheme.

These were municipal flats that no one would take because they were in bad areas and in a bad state of repair. But I was desperate, so I took my chances.

I stayed for 45 years because I had some wonderful neighbours. The rent was cheap (£5 a week) and the area was very central — it was a 12-minute bicycle ride to Trafalgar Square. It was the first time I had my own flat.

I could have bought it for £15,000 in the Nineties, but I refused on principle. I count myself lucky that I could access public housing, and I want to ensure that others can enjoy the same opportunity.

Street art
Local street art
Daniel Lynch

Eating and drinking

My favourite place is Mercato Metropolitano on Newington Causeway. It’s a vast indoor food market specialising in food from around the world.

As well as French, Spanish and Italian cuisine, there’s also Nepali, Uzbek, Syrian, Mexican, Korean and more. It’s a taste extravaganza.

Dragon Castle, a Chinese restaurant on Walworth Road is well frequented by the local Chinese community — proof that’s it’s good, authentic Chinese food. I love their dumplings.

There’s also Toulouse Lautrec on Newington Butts. They do great French food.

Mercato Metropolitano has a vast food market with food from around the world
Daniel Lynch

Where I work out

To me, gyms are a status symbol and a waste of money. I sometimes work out in one of the local parks, but mostly I exercise at home.

I do a version of the Canadian air force exercises: a combination of push-ups, squats and sit-ups. I also use 7.5kg dumbbells for bicep curls.

To commune with nature

Imperial War Museum and gardens
The gardens around the Imperial War Museum provide a pocket of green space
Daniel Lynch

There’s not much green space around the Elephant apart from St Mary’s Churchyard and the new Elephant Park development.

There’s the Tibetan Peace Garden at the Imperial War Museum, Nursery Row Park on East Street and Dickens Square on Harper Road.

Grocery shopping

There’s a very good oriental supermarket called Longdan on Walworth Road.

G Baldwin & Co
Developers are changing the area but stalwarts like G Baldwin & Co remain
Daniel Lynch

I get some groceries from G Baldwin & Co, also on Walworth Road, but increasingly, I order home deliveries online.

I get nearly all my fruit and vegetables from East Street Market, at half the cost of the supermarket. They also sell discounted homeware, clothes, shoes and electrical appliances — you can get almost anything there.

The stalls are run by local people, not by big food conglomerates, and they spend our money locally.

Peter at East Street Market
Daniel Lynch

For a culture fix

The Cinema Museum on Dugard Way includes an amazing, eclectic collection of cinema posters. The Imperial War Museum has a very moving Holocaust exhibition.

Southwark Playhouse, on Newington Causeway, has an excellent run of fringe theatre, while Henry Wood Hall in Trinity Church Square is a converted church which is now an orchestral recording and rehearsal studio.

In the garden, there’s a weathered statue of King Alfred, which is purported to be the oldest open-air statue in Britain.

Southwark Playhouse
Daniel Lynch

Getting around

I cycle to most places, largely because it’s so central. There are a dozen bus links, the Thameslink and two Tube lines: Bakerloo and Northern.

Dream street

It would be lovely to live in Merrick Square, but I think you have to be a multi-millionaire. It’s got a beautiful garden in the middle.

Merrick Square
Merrick Square, Tatchell’s dream street
Daniel Lynch

Something you only see in your area

Substantial, vibrant Latin American and Chinese communities, both of which are new. The University of the Arts led to a big increase in the Chinese population.

What’s the catch?

I’m sad and angry about the way in which the area has been dismembered by developers and by Southwark council, which sold off the 50-acre Heygate Estate site.

We lost 1,100 council houses, which have been replaced by a mere 82 social housing units.

The former Elephant & Castle shopping centre
Daniel Lynch

In three words

Diverse. Central. Vibrant.

Peter Tatchell is the director of the Peter Tatchell Foundation. The Netflix documentary Hating Peter Tatchell is streaming now.

Schools

There are 10 outstanding primary schools nearby, including Surrey Square Primary School, Crampton Primary and John Ruskin Primary School and Language Classes.

For secondaries, Harris Academy Bermondsey, Oasis Academy Southbank and Notre Dame Roman Catholic Girls’ School are all among the top choices.

What it costs

Buying in Elephant & Castle

Average flat price: £471,970

Average property price: £515,590

Renting in Elephant & Castle

Average flat: £2,710 pcm

Average house: £3,560 pcm

Source: Hamptons & Land Registry

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