When less is more

The motorway end of the Cromwell Road reeks of itinerant disaffectedness. So it was with some surprise that we found the unpromisingly named Parkcity Hotel's faceless entrance leading to a scene of urban swankiness (albeit of the kind that would only truly thrill the set dressers for an MFI product catalogue).

The hotel's restaurant, Lessandro, is a good example of what to do with an awkward space with a dodgy view of a high-rise. With carved screens, pale wood and an outdoor courtyard, it has been given a dash of secluded luxury.

The menu is Italian with a twist - and far better than we expected, particularly a memorable dish of cloud-light homemade gnocchi with a sumptuous, slow-cooked ragú of rabbit.

Our other starter, chicken breast rolls stuffed with chorizo and spinach, would have served two as a main course: these are not ladies-who-lunch portions.

Tempura of squid and prawns - only distinguished from its fritto misto relative by the addition of some proprietary sweet chilli sauce - was generous and good, despite being less lacy Japanese and more solid chip shop.

Tagliata delivered excellent, tender meat, only marred by overcooking. But the bread is divine and there are some really interesting Italian wines. Worth braving the badlands for.

Lessandro
Lexham Gardens, London, W8 5JN