This place runs on African time - i.e. gently

Deep within the bowels of the Africa Centre, the Calabash is at once worthy, comfortable and cheap.

The same complex features a splendidly seedy bar, a live music hall and African arts and crafts for sale.

The menu struggles bravely to give snapshots of the extraordinary diversity of African cuisine: they manage dishes from North, East and West Africa, as well as specialities from Nigeria, Ivory Coast, Senegal and Malawi.

So if you're looking for a particular dish you may be out of luck.

However, if you want a cheerful atmosphere, a small bill and wholesome, often spicy and usually unfamiliar food, the Calabash is worth seeking out.

Starters include familiar dishes like avocado salad and houmous, along with interesting offerings such as aloco, which is fried plantain in a hot tomato sauce.

Those with an enquiring palate will pick the gizzards, a splendid dish of chicken gizzards served in a rich, spiky pepper sauce.

Grilled chicken wings are less exotic, but very good nonetheless.

Main courses are identified by origin with the exception of 'Chicken', which is a superb dish of fried chicken served with a ferocious hot sauce.

Eat your heart out Colonel.

From Nigeria comes egusi, a rich soup/stew with spinach, meat and dried shrimps, thickened with melon seed.

Yassa is grilled chicken from Senegal, while doro wot is a pungent chicken stew from Ethiopia, served with injera, the soft and thin sourdough bread.

Nyama yo phika is a beef stew from Malawi made with potatoes and sweet peppers.

Drink whichever of the African beers is in stock at the time you visit.

Calabash
38 King Street, WC2E 8JR