The Well

This review was first published in May 2001

A newish gastropub in Clerkenwell, an area which should be tailor-made for such a venture. It's a friendly place, and the food is good. It was set up by a triumvirate of partners, two of whom are untainted by the short cuts and trend-following of the pub and catering industry (the exception, Barnaby Meredith, served his time managing august restaurants such as Quo Vadis).

In the nicest possible way, there is a healthy dash of the amateur about the place. It still looks pubby, upstairs at least (downstairs is a wildly trendy, leather-and-dim-lighting sort of bar). The food is better than good, really - simple dishes are presented simply, everything is well seasoned, portions are large, flavours are intense, prices are fair.

The wine list whips from a £9.95 Sicilian red to Chateau Petrus at £350. There are several moody lagers on draught. The menu changes frequently, and is supplemented by some daily specials on a blackboard. If you cooked at a sharp modern Italian restaurant you would be proud of the pappardelle with wild mushrooms and smoked peppers served here. Or indeed, the asparagus and lemon risotto with chunks of fresh avocado (very lemony, with a terrific mix of textures - crunchy asparagus, flakes of Parmesan, nutty rice and soft avocado).

Any Brit traditionalist would warm to the pint of prawns with mayonnaise - spankingly fresh. If you were a modern Spanish chef you would be proud of a daily special like the black bean marinated fillet of wild boar with saut? potatoes and chilli wok-ed spinach. There's a long tradition of marinating wild boar to ensure the tenderness so that it can be grilled fiercely and briefly, and this dish brings it bang up to date. Very tasty. Or how about salmon fishcake with mixed leaves and French fries? Or a rib-eye steak with fat chips, wild mushrooms and a green peppercorn sauce?

The Well is a pleasant restaurant that serves beer upstairs and has a slick cocktail bar in the basement - do not tell the staff it is a gastropub or it will end up like all the others!