The Square: A Mayfair classic with a flourish of fun

A year and a half after chef Philip Howard left The Square, prompting its closure and the loss of its coveted second Michelin star, the restaurant is back - and it means business.

Now part of the Marc restaurant group - The Greenhouse, Umu - it has had a revamp and a change of vibe to match.

A succession of playful hors d'oeuvres including miniature ice cream cones topped with flying fish roe signals a renewed intention to being high-end but not haughty, and this is backed up by the replacing of a traditional bread basket with a wonderfully fluffy tear-and-share brioche.

From there on in there’s the option of four or seven course menus, each revolving around decadent dishes given creative touches and a lighter feel than at many such Michelin establishments. Think cured Cornish mackerel enlivened with leek and chives; Devon crab spiked with cardamom; sweetbreads with a tang of pomelo as well as deep black truffle; and pan-fried venison with sharp lemon and sweet praline.

Aforementioned sweetbreads are a highlight, along with slices of vibrant pink lamb saddle threaded with saline razor clams. To end, a dark chocolate souffle and suitably epic Mayfair-edition cheese trolley prove that old-school fine-dining is most certainly not off the table - and, out of interest, neither are the tablecloths.

A few fun flourishes are more than welcome, but make no mistake: The Square has long been a special occasion institution, and that’s not changing any time soon.

It seems this classic’s future is in the bag, though it might not be so simple when it comes to getting that second star back.