The future of fish and chips

The Fish Club isn't a club, it's something much more intriguing.

This resto departs from the normal run of fish and chip shops in that it is run by chefs, not 'fryers'.

For once the food is given top priority.

As you walk in you'll spot a large chilled counter playing host to plenty of spanking fresh fish; there's an open kitchen; there is a fryer, but there is also a grill.

The blackboard lists what is on offer and everything is cooked to order.

The fish and chips to go is served up in a cardboard box (like an oversize pizza box), but if you eat in you get real china and cutlery at the large refectory tables to the rear.

The menu always includes one classic battered fish - often this fish is from a less fashionable species like coley; the proprietors make every effort to wean their customers off endangered fish like cod.

Starters range from oysters to smoked sprats or potted shrimps.

For mains, if you don't fancy battered fish with chips, how about a pair of small 'slip' soles grilled with butter? Or a whole Royal Bream chargrilled? Or a perfectly cooked wing of skate? And to go with your fish, choose from chips (very good, crisp outside, fluffy within); or sweet potato chips (as good as the chips, but with a caramelised sweetness); or a decent feta salad.

Even the sauces are pukka - try the salsa verde or the tartare sauce.

The prices tend to be at restaurant levels rather than competing with the chippies, but for fresh fish cooked carefully that seems just.

Fish Club
189 St John's Hill, SW11 1TH