Telly chef Gennaro Contaldo's real passion

Gennaro Contaldo may have been eclipsed in the fame stakes by his protégé Jamie Oliver, but he still cooks delicious and simple food.

When Passione opened nobody had heard of Gennaro Contaldo, but gradually Passione has built up a following on its own merits.

Simplicity, an unpretentious feel to the place, seasonal ingredients and talent in the kitchen - these are sure bets when it comes to eating.

You owe it to yourself to have four courses.

The menu changes daily and there is a constant procession of specials.

Among the antipasti, there's zuppa di giorno, which sounds so much better than soup of the day, and cinghiale marinato servito freddo con salsa di pesto, marinated wild boar served cold.

Then there is pasta and risotti, several of which are available in two portion sizes: tagliatelli con capesante e bottarga teams scallops with dried tuna roe, while risotto all'accetosella has the tasty tang of wild sorrel.

Mains are rich and satisfying: orata con endiva belga salsina di miele e aceto bianco, is sea bream with endives and a honey and vinegar sauce; involtini di melanzane alla parmigiano, a rich dish of baked aubergines with mozzarella; coniglio con rosmarino e patate saltate is rabbit with rosemary and sauté potatoes.

The service is slick here; this is a place where they understand the art of running a comfortable restaurant.

Puddings are serious stuff, though it has to be said that the delicious gelato Passione, a swirl of zesty limoncello ice with a splash of wild strawberry folded into it, is for all the world a grown-up's raspberry ripple.

Try Contaldo's fabled focaccia - the one that the pukka chap is always banging on about.

Passione
10 Charlotte Street, W1T 2LT