Somewhat out of tune at Defune

10 April 2012

This review was first published in May 2001

The Japanese restaurant DEFUNE, which used to occupy quite noticeably run-down premises in Blandford Street, has relocated to a cool corner site in George Street. Defune is a name bandied about among serious sushi eaters with deep pockets - properly cut and constructed, the raw fish and rice snack does not come cheaply.

At the new address, a pub conversion in blond wood and grey-green slate, there is a sushi bar to the right of the entrance, restaurant tables to the left and in the basement, the table-top grills for preparing and serving teppan-yaki.

At our first attempt to eat at the face-lifted Defune, we were greeted by the manager shouting "Full up!", an approach that I imagine is not a traditional Japanese welcome. We took the precaution of booking for our second try on a Sunday evening. It was just as well; the place was packed and as soon as a seat at the sushi counter was vacated someone arrived to occupy it.

Not surprisingly a smarter look has only added to the expense of eating interesting sushi and sashimi. If you opt for the starter portion of sashimi at £24, as I did, a plate arrives with a preponderance of fat-streaked salmon. Better to bite the bullet and specify the more esoteric species.

A cup of chawan mushi included too much liquid which had leached out from the savoury custard that should hold firm the various pieces of fish and vegetable. A plate of prawn and vegetable tempura lacked the feathery lightness which distinguishes really first-class tempura. The muddle of beansprouts and red peppers that accompanied fried pork slices with a ginger dressing rendered an £18 main course - the price of most of the main courses - distinctly bad value. It is the sushi chef who remains king at Defune.

Our waitress had asked if she could bring all the items ordered at the same time. When we demurred, we unknowingly embarked on a meal where we took it in turns to eat. Such a system doesn't make for a jolly evening, especially when you note the 15 per cent service charge on what are already hefty prices.

Defune
34 George Street, W1 3AJ

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