Shackfuyu, Soho – tried and tasted

Bone Daddies’ Soho shack goes from pop-up to permanent
Exhilarating, exhausting, addictive: Shackfuyu
Ben Norum19 December 2015

When former Zuma and Nobu chef Ross Shonhan opened Shackfuyu in early 2015, it wasn’t meant to last. But such was its popularity that he deemed it too good to be temporary.

It closed, got an overhaul and relaunched earlier this month as an all-new permanent restaurant.

It now sits alongside Bone Daddies ramen bars in Soho, Kensington and Shoreditch and izakaya Flesh & Buns in Covent Garden as part of Ross’s fleet of Japanese restaurants.

On the menu

Working with Ross, head chef Ben Hughes has created a menu that’s based on yōshoku food (essentially Japanized forms of Western dishes) but isn’t afraid to wander into other Asian territories.

The dishes — served as small plates for sharing — are loud, proud, high octane and in-your-face.

Butch and beefy: Iberico pork pluma

Richly-flavoured Iberico pork pluma served medium-rare tastes butch and beefy in an intensely peppery miso sauce. Korean-fried chicken wings are sweet, spicy and oh-so sticky. Octopus tacos are vibrant and sloppy with tender seafood chunks. Addictively salty sweet potato fries love an accompanying zingy shio mayo, and miso aubergine is a standout — sodden, melting chunks of the vegetable bask in the glory of ultimate umami.

Just listing these dishes is tiring, so imagine how your tastebuds will feel at the end of a Shackfuyu experience. But rest assured that along with the inevitable exhaustion, your salt-, sugar- and chilli-bashed buds will also have had one of the most exhilarating dining sessions London can offer. And they just might get addicted.

Legendary: kinako French toast

Something sweet

There is just one dessert at Shackfuyu, but it’s a good ‘un. In fact, the kinako French toast has become quite legendary. It’s not hard to see why — it’s gooey, buttery, sweet (but not too sweet) and pleasingly squidgy with a slightly caramelised crust. The topping of powdered soya beans (the kinako) adds a nutty flavour while an accompanying swirl of matcha-flavoured Mr Whippy ice cream adds to the effect.

The best food in London

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Liquid libations

A number of Japanese craft beers, sakes and Japanese whiskies bolster a selection of Asian-inspired cocktails. A frozen yuzu margarita is refreshing, strong and with full-throttle citrus zing. There’s also a short selection of wines.

Shackfuyu: The Lowdown

Final flavour: Exhilarating, high-tempo food that you could get addicted to.

At what cost? Plates range from £3 to £22 with the bulk of them coming in around £5-£9. You’ll want around three or four plates per person.

Visit if you like: Kurobuta, Flesh & Buns, On the Bab

Find it: 14a Old Compton Street, W1D 4TJ; bonedaddies.com/shackfuyu

Follow Ben Norum on Twitter @BenNorum

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