Serving-up a generous welcome
I don't know what they do to the staff at Lilly's but rarely have I encountered such enthusiasm for the gig. 'Do you want more mashed potatoes?' asked one.
'As much as you like. We don't want anyone leaving hungry.' From another came such an avalanche of 'No worries', we reckoned she would've given us the shirt off her back, if asked.
Owner Simon Binder says he wanted to open the sort of neighbourhood restaurant he'd like to visit himself. I can't imagine a neighbourhood that wouldn't benefit from a local Lilly's.
The food is straightforward and good quality: excellent burgers, roast rib of beef, some seriously sexy sandwiches and daily specials like fish pie or sausage and mash.
Even presentation isn't overlooked: my generous portion of velvety chicken liver parfait came in a wide-necked preserving jar, flanked by piquant pickles.
Our perfectly cooked whole roast sea bass came with an intriguing salsa verde (curiously minty but good) and apparently unlimited vegetables. Uninspiring salads are a weak point but otherwise we had a damn fine dinner.
Only the corporate look of the place is a downer - it has nationwide roll-out written all over it. But if they can maintain the standards, even that might not be such a bad thing.
A three-course meal with wine, water and service costs about £80. 75 Wapping High Street E1. Tel: 020 7702 2040. Tube: Wapping
Lilly's
75 Wapping High Street, E1W 2YN
