Meat restaurants London 2019: Best steaks, burgers, fried chicken and kebabs to gorge on

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Ailis Brennan11 July 2019

Is tofu ticking you off? Jackfruit got your goat?

If Veganuary is a distant memory, then allow us to provide a protein-packed, medium rare alternative.

From bone marrow to barbecued brisket, fried chicken to a very Full English, these are the London restaurants that are dedicated to bringing you the very finest in meat-centric cuisine.

Sharpen up your steak knives – we promise there’s not a slab of seitan nor a coconut cheese slice in sight.

St John

Fergus Henderson is passionate about meat – every last bit of it. Since opening its original site near Smithfields meat market in 1994, the St John restaurants have gained international fame for reviving traditional British recipes and championing nose-to-tail eating. One of chef Henderson’s most iconic dishes on the menu is the roasted bone marrow on toast, served with sourdough toast and parsley – so prized, its the only dish always available at the Smithfields spot. Other offally good (sorry) dishes include grilled ox heart, crispy pig skins and heartily filled pies.

Smokestak

If one thing is for sure, it’s that David Carter knows what to do with a barbecue. Shoreditch restaurant Smokestak started life as a street stall, from which chef Carter would tower up thick slices of his blackened, treacly beef brisket onto brioche buns, dress it with chillies and serve it to salivating punters. The buns are still on the menu here, along with the likes of pigs tails with soy molasses, crisped-up ox cheeks, ribs of either pork belly with pickled cucumber, or lamb with parsley and shallots. If a bun isn’t enough for you, a whole beef brisket can be ordered for the table.

35 Sclater Street, E1 6LB, smokestak.co.uk

Hawksmoor

Steak fan or not, if you haven’t got your chops around the Hawksmoor’s fare before now, you’re sorely missing out. This high-end mini chain certainly knows its sirloin from its chateaubriand alright, with many portions measured by the 100g. Steak, however, is only half the story. Hawksmoor’s sharing breakfast offers smoked bacon chop, pork, beef and mutton sausages, black pudding, short-rib bubble and squeak, grilled bone marrow, trotter baked beans and – believe it or not – even more. The roasts are also something to behold.

Various locations, thehawksmoor.com

Monty’s Deli

Personally, we won’t accept a sandwich unless it’s two inches thick. Monty’s Deli laughs at such a challenge, particularly when cooking up its legendary, jam-packed Reubens. Many, many layers of either home-cured salt beef or pastrami slices are piled onto fluffy white bread, and topped with mustard, Russian dressing, kraut and cheese. Upgrade to the Reuben Special to get a decadent serving of both meats in one sandwich for £13.

Flank

Brighton-hailing chef Tom Griffiths has brought his all-encompassing love of meat to the capital, currently serving up his diverse menus across both Spitalfields Market and Market Hall Victoria. Another proponent of nose-to-tail eating, Griffiths’ concept embraces both street food-ready pulled pork buns and smoked brisket naans, with pop-up dinners serving up the likes of pig head, offal toast and baked dripping chips.

Chick’n’Sours

Chick’n’Sours fries its succulent chicken cuts in rapeseed oil for maximum crunch and minimum grease, a formula that has brought the fried chicken shop from Haggerston to Islington and prime restaurant territory in Covent Garden. The Sours aspect of the outfit comes in the form of the contrasting sweet, savoury and tart dipping sauces served with the buttermilk-battered fare, along with the sour cocktails that bring zing to the drinks menu.

E8, N1, WC2, chicknsours.co.uk

Brigadiers

Much is said about Indian cuisine’s favourability towards vegetarians – Brigadiers clearly didn’t get the memo. The menu of this sprawling City drinking den and feast-inducing restaurant is well populated with indulgently meaty fare: barbecue butter chicken wings are dripping with decadence, sikandari kid goat shoulder is superbly well spiced and a dum beef shin and bone marrow biryani is to die for. Vegetarians are in for a bumpy ride here, but meat-eaters will mop up every succulent moment.

1-5 Bloomberg Arcade, EC4N 8AR, brigadierslondon.com

The Duck Truck

You may have spotted this street food van on BBC2’s most recent series of My Million Pound Menu – if so, you would have also doubtlessly drooled over Ed Farrell’s duck-devoted offerings. It’s the only main ingredient on the menu at the Spitalfields pitstop, which serves the moreish meat up in the form of a crispy duck wrap with hoisin sauce, a pulled duck brioche bun and confit duck leg on top of duck fat chips. Ironically, you'll find them on Lamb Street.

Old Spitalfields Market, Lamb Street, E1 6ED, theducktruck.com

Temper Soho

Neil Rankin’s Soho spot wants you to get close to the action. If you can stand the heat, get close to the open kitchen: the warmth that radiates from six metre-long central fire pit can’t fail to get you baying for barbecue. All meat at Temper Soho is butchered from whole animals on site – and frequently in view of diners – and turns up at the table in the form of beef fat tacos (the tortillas have been cooked in the fat that drips from the meats) and lamb barbacoa served with pico de gallos and buttered parathas.

25 Broadwick Street, W1F 0DF, temperrestaurant.com

Mac and Wild

A burger will hit the spot for most carnivores – but what if a one-meat meal just isn’t enough? Scottish restaurant Mac and Wild has packed not one, but two Highland-hailing prime meats into its most lauded burger offering. The VeniMoo sees a beef patty topped with a gamey venison patty, along with cheese, béarnaise, caramelised onions and the option to add candied bacon. Elsewhere on the menu, Scottish delicacy haggis is proudly present, in the form of deep fried nuggets (or “pops”) and even mixed into the mac and cheese.

Roast

A roast dinner is one of Britain's most hallowed meals, so it’s hardly surprising that a London restaurant has dedicated itself entirely to such a sacred feast. Roast, in Borough Market, celebrates the spirit of the great British roast all week round – dishes include pork belly, lamb rump and full roast beef even on weekdays. If you get a Sunday lunch hankering but can’t find the time, grab one of Roast To Go’s roasted meat sandwiches at its Borough Market stall.

The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, SE1 1TL, roast-restaurant.com

Berber & Q

Kebabs aren’t just for sobering up in the early hours of Saturday – with thousands of years of history, the Middle Eastern staple is a thing to be celebrated any time of day. At both its Haggerston Grill House and Exmouth Market Shawarma Bar, Berber & Q puts heart and soul into their gorgeously grilled meats. In EC1, pick up a whole rotisserie chicken, or lamb shawarma by the plate, with rice, or with pita, always served with harissa and sumac onions. Go all out at the Grill House and get a whole roasted shoulder of lamb mechoui for the table.

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