Joe Allen: A stunning return to form for theatreland favourite

This Covent Garden haunt remains rightly popular with actors, agents and luvvie types for its famous American classics
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David Ellis @dvh_ellis31 January 2018

Joe Allen is as deeply embedded in London’s theatre scene as, say, The Mousetrap. Open since 1977, the Covent Garden haunt quickly became so popular with actors, agents and luvvie types that it was nicknamed The West End Canteen, a moniker still used to this day.

The famous red frontage moved sites earlier this year, just down the road, which seems to have done the place a tremendous amount of good: there were fears a little of the magic was at danger of being lost, but it’s actually revived the spirit of the place and they’ve upped the food and drink stakes considerably.

The draw has always been the American cooking; steak and cheesecake, the famous Joe Allen hot dog and the arguably even more famous burger – which, you should already know, is always “off menu” and must be asked for. Now the offerings go a little further and dishes are surprisingly delicate. Seared tuna loin with wasabi, avocado purée and cucumber salsa is finely flavoured, with the wasabi used sparingly, bringing the right touch of heat to liven things up. Grilled swordfish is plated with crushed new potatoes, cucumber and salsa verde. The fish is hearty, but a touch sweet, too, lifted by the green freshness of the cucumber.

There are, of course, still some old favourites: pan fried calf's liver sits in blankets of caramelised onion and shallots, with mash drunk on its own butter. It's the kind of dish that's as comforting and old-fashioned and ideal as snifter of brandy at the end of a long, cold night.

You’re really coming, though, for the magic of it all, from the posters on the walls to the iconic red and white print everywhere. There is still plenty of buzz here, the same ripple of 'where do I know them from?' when new diners sit down. It's a testament to the staff that on the night I'm in, a few people come in on their own and settle happily. There are few places in London where it's actually that comfortable to eat solo, usually because staff either ignore you or serve everything with a helping of pity. It's not like that here.

I’m fond of Joe Allen; it was one of the first London restaurants I went to as a child, as family caught up after watching our cousin in a show, and I remember all the adults drunk and all the kids stuffed. Going back, even now, that sense of joy is still there. The place is fun; it always has been, it always will be, and it's priced so fairly that you can make it a regular haunt. And still, there’s still a chance to spot an old actor swirling a glass of red wine and pouring out their stories.

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