Italy in Belgravia

10 April 2012

When Zafferano opened, the combination of modern Italian food and decent value fixed-price menus was a rare and dazzling new development that attracted a host of diners and a number of awards.

People felt that although it wasn't cheap per se you did get a good deal.

Now Zafferano has matured and expanded - more tables, a luxurious bar and a private room.

But the deal is still a simple one, you are faced with a series of multiple-course options and you merely have to decide how greedy you want to be.

This is one place where you should go through the card: antipasti, pasta, main and pud.

The cooking is good here, the menu is seasonal, and the ingredients carefully chosen.

Fortunately, the service is slick and the wine list long, so the 'essence of Italy' mood remains unbroken.

Starters may include sliced duck speck and pig's cheek with mustard fruits; warm octopus salad; tuna carpaccio with fennel, orange and mint.

Go on to the stunning pheasant ravioli with rosemary, or the fish.

Then there may be something simple like pan-fried veal cutlet with mushrooms and rosti; or roast partridge with cabbage, chicken livers and capers; or truffles dishes in season - they attract a hefty supplement, but it is worth it for the baked onion filled with cheese fondue and topped with truffle.

Puddings are serious - the tortino al cioccolato, chocolate fondant pudding, is worth the 12-minute wait.

The tiramisù is formidable.

Zafferano
Lowndes Street, London, SW1X 9EY

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