Implausibly laid-back service, Ethiopian dishes

The Lalibela is a 12th-century Ethiopian church carved in the shape of a cross, from a huge outcrop of solid rock.

The restaurant is equally remarkable for serving uncompromisingly authentic Ethiopian food and for a genuine understanding of hospitality.

There's a slightly harassed but still laid-back feel to the place that's a great comfort to the diner.

The unwary can end up seated on low, carved, wooden seats around traditional low tables (so that you can eat with your hands).

If your knee joints won't take that kind of punishment, plead for an ordinary table and resign yourself to dripping sauce down your shirt front.

There is a limited number of starters, but they banish any inkling you may have about being in an odd kind of curry house.

The lamb samosas have very dry, papery pastry and a savoury, spicy filling - delicious.

The Lalibela salad is potatoes and beetroot fried together with a spicy sauce and served hot.

Main courses are served traditionally, that is to say as pools of sauce set out on a two-foot-diameter injera bread.

Injera is cold, made from fermented sourdough, and thin; tear off a piece and use it to eat with.

Portions are small, but the flavours are intense.

If you prefer, you can have the dishes with rice or mashed potato.

What goes on the injera? Wot, that's what.

Doro wot is a piece of chicken and a hard-boiled egg in a rich sauce, while begh wot is lamb with a bit more chilli.

Fried fish tibs is a dish of fried fish marinated in rosemary and lemon juice served with a mild chilli and garlic sauce.

Try the Ethiopian traditional coffee, which is not only delicious, but comes with its own mini-ceremonial.

Lalibela
Fortess Road, London, NW5 2HR