How Koreans use their noodles

Korea is riding high in the World Cup, but Korean food is still somewhat inaccessible.

There is a scurrilous (and almost certainly untrue) story that on the door of a particular Korean restaurant in south London is a hand-written sign, the elegant characters of which translate as: "The public health regulations do not allow us to serve dog here, but if you ask the chef discreetly he may know where you can get some"!

To the non-expert there is some overlap between Korean food and Japanese dishes, but Korean food is more earthy and less delicate in style - noodles are important; there are a great many different soups; and you may be offered raw beef sometimes served with pear and raw egg (yukwhoe).

As far as etiquette goes, it is bad form to pick up your bowl; you are allowed to slurp your noodles; you shouldn't leave your chopsticks stuck up in your bowl; and you shouldn't be surprised when your waitress offers to cut up your noodles with a large pair of scissors.

A neat and busy little Korean restaurant with a loyal following among businessmen.

2. Ran
58-59 Great Marlborough Street, W1
(020 7434 1650).

The set meals at this modern Soho establishment are a good way to explore Korean food without making too many gaffes.

3. Jie's
74 Burlington Road, New Malden, Surrey
(020 8942 0682).

This corner of south-west London is home to a thriving Korean community and several sound Korean restaurants. Jie's is an informal, economical, un-intimidating place.

4. Bu-San
43 Holloway Road, N7
(020 7607 8264).

Somewhat fadedlooking exterior conceals a warm welcome, and sound Korean dishes.

5. Kaya
42 Albemarle Street, W1
(020 7499 0622).

When you have built up your confidence it will be time to tackle Kaya, and the more formal, Mayfair, face of Korean dining.