Hoity-toity tendencies

Dune's premises have seen off two restaurants in rapid succession - one of them (Osia) was even rather good. The latest incumbents have cleverly re-jigged the space, using the larger lobby as a bar and secreting the restaurant in the long, high-ceilinged back room.

But the cleverness seems to stop there. We were the only people in the room. Our rather arch waiter blamed a big football night but, after eating, we weren't so sure.

The menu is old-fashioned, sort-of European with hoity-toity tendencies - dishes are labelled Bilbao, Gascogne, Andalusian and Catalan, with choices such as Moroccan cromesquis of goat's cheese.

Yet despite the menu's length, we struggled to find something we wanted to eat. Food arrived hilariously and ineptly fancified. 'Sardinian' crab cakes came with candied oranges and various blobs that couldn't quite disguise the stridency of the crab; foie gras had so many flourishes on the plate, it looked like it was in drag.

On main course plates, we found fans of fruit, fronds of herb, furbelows a-go-go. But pork (Bayonne) was drab and 'porcini' were a mixed bag of flabby assorted wild mushrooms. 'Chicken Atlas' ('marinated in Moroccan spices') was dinner-party catering circa 1978.

If Dune's owners want to last longer than their predecessors, it might be an idea to get with the 21st century.

11 Haymarket SW1. Tel: 020 7839 2424. Tube: Piccadilly Circus

Dune
11 Haymarket, SW1