High-level room, high level of ambition

Plateau juts out from the fourth floor of a giant glass office block and looks out over a square that is surrounded by even larger towers.

Visit at night, the view is amazing - spooky in a slightly Blade Runner sort of way, but incredible.

Because the other offices tower above you there is no feeling of vertigo until you catch sight of a tiny bus moving round the square below.

The menu at Plateau is of stalwart construction.

You can have seared foie gras with fig, date and lime chutney; or butternut squash and mascarpone ravioli; or seared scallops, celery, cranberry sauce.

Main courses tick a few comfortable boxes: Dover sole with herb crust, or braised beef cheeks, purple mash potato; wild sea bass comes with crushed potato and pistachio; aligot translates as pretty desirable mashed potato.

The service is sound and unruffled.

The wine list is refreshingly egalitarian - in such a lofty and aspirational establishment it is hard not to feel nervous, but before winging off into the stratosphere, there is plenty of good drinking at more earthbound prices.

Puds are sound: chocolate fondant, or tarte Tatin.

At lunch Plateau is odds on to do good business in a directors' dining room sort of way, but in the evening it is worth a visit purely to gaze out of the window.

It is also worth noting that the adjacent Plateau bar and grill shares the view and offers a slightly less formal menu.

Plateau
- Canada Place, E14 4QS