Hawksmoor Borough, review: It means business, and that business is steak

Find drama and god-given grilling skills at the haunts of these steak connoisseurs
Sublime steaks at Hawksmoor
Ailis Brennan12 December 2017

Few tables in London come laden with as much drama as they do at Hawksmoor.

The mahogany-filled minimal glow, reflected by bevelled glass and caught occasionally by emerald green leather, could do little more to encourage filmic fantasies of Capone et al conducting tête-à-têtes in one of their many corners. Hawksmoor means business, and that business is steak.

The meat comes courtesy of The Ginger Pig, the much lauded and certainly very busy butchers, before it enters the hands of Hawksmoor’s god-given grilling skills. The climax is more than dramatic: the steak is divine.

As tender as it is flavoursome, as compliant to falling apart as it is beguiling for another bite, it’s difficult to imagine much improving Hawksmoor’s steaks. Difficult, that is, until you try the anchovy hollandaise – a golden salted elixir for which you could easily skip dessert and consume whole in its place.

If it’s a little early for steak, the sharing breakfast served at Hawksmoor Guildhall is an eye-wateringly protein-filled affair consisting of smoked bacon chop, pork, beef, & mutton sausages, black pudding, short-rib bubble & squeak, grilled bone marrow, trotter baked beans and also some other things that aren’t meat. On a Sunday, the rest of the locations offer a Sunday roast that is among the best in the capital – beef only, of course.

Create a FREE account to continue reading

eros

Registration is a free and easy way to support our journalism.

Join our community where you can: comment on stories; sign up to newsletters; enter competitions and access content on our app.

Your email address

Must be at least 6 characters, include an upper and lower case character and a number

You must be at least 18 years old to create an account

* Required fields

Already have an account? SIGN IN

By clicking Create Account you confirm that your data has been entered correctly and you have read and agree to our Terms of use , Cookie policy and Privacy policy .

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in