Great food in a genuine gastropub

It may raise a few eyebrows amongst biologists, but this fox is the direct descent of an eagle - The Fox is sibling to the original gastropub, The Eagle (see p. 190).

Downstairs it is a grand, pubby sort of pub, with decent real ale and the kind of serious pub food that really appeals.

Upstairs is the dining room, which has much in common with the style of the original Eagle: the tables and chairs are an eclectic mix, the cutlery and china are gleefully mismatched, and the whole has a passing resemblance to Steptoe's lair.

The cooking at The Fox is 'school of' The Eagle.

Dishes are robust, well seasoned, honest and driven by the seasons.

The menu changes every day, and while there isn't a huge amount of choice there should be something to please everyone.

Pricing is straightforward: either a two-course or a three-course set menu.

For starters, a typical choice is between a potato and sorrel soup; smoked trout, dandelion and soft-boiled egg; beetroot, feta and rocket.

Note the homeliness of these dishes, their balance and the comfortable combinations of flavour and texture.

Main course options may include crab Newburg; cod, peas and escarole; pigeon, bubble and squeak; or gammon and parsley sauce.

This food is as sophisticated as it is simple.

Finish off with a delicious pud, such as buttermilk pudding with blood orange salad, or chocolate tart, as well as a well-chosen cheese.

With food like this, and a sensibly priced wine list, The Fox makes for a pleasant, good-value and unpretentious place to eat.

And there is even an agreeable little suntrap terrace, with a few tables for hardened lovers of the alfresco.

The Fox Dining Room
Paul Street, London, EC2A 4LB