Give Vinoteca Marylebone a chance

The first Vinoteca, created by Elena Ares, Brett Woonton and Charlie Young, opened in St John Street Clerkenwell five years ago. You might argue that the sibling located in what estate agents have apparently christened Portman Village is the more soigné of the two, but soigné can be rebellious.

Putting a roast beef and grilled onion sandwich including freshly grated horseradish on the menu as a first course is definitely spirited. Chef Will Leigh — visible in the green-tiled open kitchen — espouses homely comfort food (pies a speciality) and the main course of roasted pork and butter beans with herb crumbs, served all of a jumble, fulfilled that definition in the best possible manner.

A turmeric-coloured fragrant kedgeree topped with an oeuf mollet also delivered solace. Recommending a wine to unite those two was a challenge elegantly met by the charming waiter’s suggestion of Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Nero "Umore Nero" Castello di Luzzano at a very reasonable (in terms of mark-up) £23.75.

Encouraging the exploration of wine — we were given a sampling of a breezy 2009 Muller-Thurgau from Slovakia and later a nip of Venezuelan rum with little squares of chocolate truffle — and also selling it retail is an important
element in this enoteca. Wine can be bought to take home or via shop.vinoteca.co.uk.

Menus and suggested wine matches change daily. It’s the sort of little brother you quickly grow to like.

Vinoteca Marylebone
15 Seymour Place, W1H 5BD