Fay Maschler's week in food: The Wells Tavern, cured salmon and spit-roast lamb

This week, restaurant critic Fay Maschler enjoyed Brighton's seafront and was only let down by the weather in Highgate
Especially diverting: Blacklock's egg and anchovy on a crisp rye biscuit
Fay Maschler14 May 2015

1. Lunch with Rosianne and Simon Pack, new friends made in Jaipur, started with rösti, chestnut mushrooms, spinach, leeks and poached egg at my sister Beth’s wizard pub The Wells Tavern (thewellshampstead.co.uk).

2. Poppy seed and mustard chicken korma is one of the curries at Masala Grill (masalagrill.co) — the dynamic reincarnation of King’s Road stalwart Chutney Mary — that will keep its many fans content.

3. Before the rough and tumble of various chops on juice-soaked chargrilled bread at Blacklock (theblacklock.com), an especially diverting bite of egg and anchovy on a crisp rye biscuit.

4. Cured salmon, miso, crème fraîche, burnt cucumber and truffle at The Salt Room (saltroom-restaurant.co.uk) that has brilliantly upgraded Brighton’s seafront.

5. Only the weather didn’t play ball at the Hello Summer gathering at Highgate’s Red Lion & Sun (theredlionandsun.com). Spit-roast lamb and Penfolds wines performed impeccably. Bin 28? Yes, I have.

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