Famous London restaurants: Marcus

Our guide to the London restaurants with big reputations: how to book, who you might spot and what's on the menu. This time we visit Marcus...
Modern comfort: Marcus, which underwent a £1.4 million refurbishment in 2014
David Ellis @dvh_ellis12 December 2017

The backstory: A wearisome feud with Gordon Ramsay provided a backdrop to the original Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley in 2008, and a little theatre too: column inches were spent gleefully gossiping the bitter remarks both chefs spat at each other. Still, Wareing’s solo venture persevered, then triumphed, picking up two Michelin stars in 2009.

For three months in 2014, the place shut as builders came in to throw out the heavy burgundy chairs, yards of linen and, it seems, the chef’s surname: the restaurant became plain-old, aren’t-we-relaxed, ‘Marcus’. And it is a relaxing space – mostly: the butter knife had no discernable blade, or, indeed, handle, so, not feeling in the mood to humiliate myself, I had to skip the bread and go for more champagne. Less resourceful diners may not be so lucky. Still, the fair-sized, low-lit room of jaunty art, turquoise splashes and short table-clothes is a rare, desirable thing: a hotel restaurant that doesn’t feel like it’s in a hotel. This is harder than it sounds: some of London's grand rooms feel so mannered and antiquated one half expects a director to walk in halfway through the meal and yell 'cut'.

Who goes there? The restaurant is as well regarded for its namesake as its clientele: Masterchef judge Wareing has long been a London favourite, known too for The Gilbert Scott and Tredwell’s. Being in the same building at celebrity honeytrap The Blue Bar doesn’t harm the place, and the likes of Madonna, Kevin Spacey, Helena Christensen, Johnny Depp and Robert de Niro have all been seen here.

What’s on the menu: They’ve a tasting menu, or à la carte, with the choice of three or four courses. You needn’t put away all four, but we both know you’re here to splash out for an occasion, so do, and be hungry: these aren’t doll-sized portions for pretend people, but plates elegantly filled for those of us who haven’t had time for lunch since school. And what courses! The extra is a ‘middle’ (a light main, usually fish heavy), so no doubling up on the sweet stuff.

Precision: the artful custard tart

Michelin stars give this place away: the food is duly exemplary. Veal sweetbreads come rich, with just a little firmness, perfect, laced with artichoke and white onion. Herdwick lamb, with baby garlic, fresh onion and curd comes salty, but that salt pulling out the flavour, balanced with the mild garlic. Dishes change seasonally, though the theme is classic British staples – salmon, venison, duck, beef fillet, cod and so forth. These are given little lifts here and there in a way that suggests the restaurant still fancies its chances for a third star. If you're picky about your food, speak to restaurant manager Daniel Greenock, a warm and accommodating chap.

Meanwhile, the wine list protects customers and it would be hard to make much of a bad choice unless you’re really trying. Interestingly, a number of the serves are easy-drinking stuff, the kind to extend the food but not battle with it for attention: nice to see the likes of Jeff Coutelou’s Flambadou (from the Languedoc) and the pricier, light spice of 2009 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Poggione. But just ask: the sommelier will see you through.

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Cheque out: A la carte, 3 courses for £85, four courses for £105. Wine from around £15 a glass, and from £70ish a bottle. Taste menu £120.

Follow David Ellis on Twitter @dvh_ellis

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