Elite Italian with prices to match

10 April 2012

For a small, almost scruffy, ochre-painted room above the Chepstow pub, Assaggi is enviably full and getting a table can be a problem.

The prices are unforgiving and, on the face of it, paying so much for such straightforward Italian dishes could raise the hackles.

But the reason Assaggi is such a gem, and also the reason it is always full, is that selfsame straightforwardness.

The menu may appear simple, but it is littered with authentic and luxury ingredients, and the cooking is very accomplished indeed.

Prepare yourself for a meal to be remembered.

You'll find a dozen starters - with the option to have the pastas as main courses - and half a dozen main courses.

Start with pasta, maybe rotolo con asparagi e ricotta al forno, or a plate of sensational bufala Mozzarella.

Or choose grilled vegetables with olive oil and herbs.

Or there may be a dish like capesante con salsa alla zafferano, a simple plate of perfectly cooked, splendidly fresh scallops.

Main courses are even more pared down: calf's liver; a plainly grilled veal chop with rosemary; fritto misto.

But even a humble side salad of tomato, rucola e basilico is everything you would wish for.

Puddings change daily.

Look out for panna cotta - a perfect texture - and the beautifully simple dish made from ultra-fresh buffalo ricotta served with 'cooked' honey.

To accompany, the short wine list features splendid and unfamiliar Italian regional specialities.

Be careful if offered 'specials' made with truffle or wild mushrooms - they are delicious but wallet bruising.

Assaggi
Chepstow Place, London, W2 4TS

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