Dumpling delights for ladies who lunch

Here is a story I heard about Pengelley's, the Gordon Ramsay-backed, pan-Asian restaurant that opened in February. A couple who had found one or two of their dishes less than adequate, spotted chef Ian Pengelley standing near the door as they left the restaurant.

He asked if everything had been all right. They explained that everything hadn't been. "Oh dear," said Pengelley, "I am sorry. I'll tell the chef."

Australian Pengelley is the chef who launched Will Ricker's E&O, in Notting Hill Gate. The popularity of itty-bitty dishes served to wraith-like young women there, always makes me think of Aldous Huxley's novel Crome Yellow in which the Lapith sisters think it deeply unspiritual to be seen eating. As Emmeline Lapith remarks: "Luckily, a very little suffices to keep one alive."

You would think, in a street of high-designer shops, something of E&O's buzz could have been translated to Knightsbridge, but for Pengelley's - on the first floor of a building owned by The Carlton Tower hotel - you don't have to book far ahead.

At lunchtime last Tuesday, when I was lured by the Express Dim Sum menu at £15 for four items (also available 6-7.30pm), there were three other tables occupied.

It meant that two of us were given one of the comfortable booths with plenty of space to spread out our choice of eight of the nine items on offer (we skipped avocado and sweet potato tempura on the grounds that avocado shouldn't be subjected to heat).

The quality of dumplings and other items, such as pomegranate and roasted coconut wrapped in betel leaf, chilli salt squid (a Pengelley speciality) and pad Thai, was high but the arrival of all the dishes at more or less the same time diminished enjoyment.

Best of the lot were fine, clean scallop and prawn dumplings and son-in-law eggs, eggs stir-fried with chilli sauce, palm sugar and tamarind - a champion hangover dish, I would imagine.

The good deal can be easily scuppered by extras such as Badoit water at £4 and a speciality white tea at £8.50 but, with its friendly service and spacious, light surroundings, Pengelley's at lunchtime should be bustling with business - including slender ladies who lunch.

  • Price estimates the cost of Express Dim Sum lunch with drinks for one.

Pengelly's
164 Sloane Street, SW1

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