Considered tapas, serious charcuterie

10 April 2012

When is a tapas not a tapas? When it's a miniaturised dish picked from a modern grazing menu, that's when.

The Salt Yard is a tapas restaurant, but only just.

The plain-looking downstairs dining room is very like a good many other modern dining rooms and the concept of ordering 'three or so dishes each and sharing' seems to be all the rage with a host of trendy restos.

Rather pleasingly, the food is either very simple - a board with a selection of different Spanish charcuterie: salchichon, cabedaza, lomo and chorizo, or quite sophisticated - a dish of pot-roast rabbit with gnocchi and black olives.

The rabbit is good and comes in a middleweight portion, rather more than you would expect as a tapas and only just smaller than you would expect as a pukka main course.

Also good from the meat options are the confit of Gloucester Old Spot pork belly with rosemary cannellini beans, and the morcilla croquetas, which are amazing black pudding rissoles with a crunchy outside and creamy, rich interior.

From the fish choices, the crispy squid with chickpea purée is a winner: good crisp and dry squidlets on a layer of what is very like a hot and savoury houmous.

The piquillo peppers filled with salt cod come with a black olive dressing, and you could order pan-fried bream with chargrilled baby leeks.

In the veg section you'll find chargrilled peppers and a panzanella salad with buffalo mozzarella.

The wine list is carefully chosen.

Service is notably efficient as it needs to be with the dishes coming in waves.

Good food in a pleasantly informal atmosphere.

Salt Yard
Goodge Street, London, W1T 4NA

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