Clarke’s: Dedicated fans for decidedly good reasons

Best of British ingredients handled with artistic yet practical sensibility
Fay Maschler20 December 2017

In a magazine article asking chefs what they would be cooking on Christmas Day, I remember Sally Clarke saying something like she “might boil a few carrots”. She is ascetic, our Sal and it has stood her in good stead. Young dude chefs nowadays get praised for their no-choice tasting menus, but more than 30 years ago Sally — inspired in part by Alice Waters at Chez Panisse — launched Clarke’s with a fixed dinner menu (that rule has recently been relaxed). She was ahead of her time in other ways such as strict seasonality, devotion to the best produce, local if possible, an open kitchen, bread made in-house, simplicity, clarity, clean fingernail inspection and Californian wines. There is a serenity in the dining rooms that attracts a band of devoted followers. Lucian Freud was one, as art on the walls attests. For the best of British ingredients handled with an artistic yet practical sensibility, Clarke’s is there to carry you to a safe harbour.

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