Christopher's American Grill

10 April 2012

This review was published in June 2002

Whisper it, but one of the most highly-rated American restaurants in London is actually the brainchild of a Briton. Christopher's American Bar And Grill in Covent Garden started life as Christopher Gilmour's homage to the rather grand steak and lobster restaurants that are common on the eastern seaboard of the USA.

The newest of these 'American grills' has an unlikely home in the Thistle Hotel at Victoria Station. The dining room has a high ceiling, some wacky chandeliers and a large bar area. Tables are close together and not over-generous in size. The menu is practical and to the point.

There is a Maryland crab cake with rocket and red pepper mayo - a small disc of fresh crabmeat gets a coating of gloopy pink sauce and is served warm. Carpaccio of beef 'Harry's Bar' presumably qualifies as American food because all Americans like Harry's Bar in Venice. It is sound enough.

There is also a classic Caesar salad which may be served with or without anchovies - a thoughtful touch that will please the purists. Main courses split into straightforward dishes such as salmon fishcakes or roast chicken, then there's a whole section devoted to lobsters and steaks. The lobsters come from Maine and the steaks come from the Duke Of Buccleuch's estate in Scotland - even the one described as New York Strip Sirloin Steak, which is good and accurately cooked, as tender a thick cut steak as you could wish for.

French fries are fine, tobacco onions are better. Next week, on the Fabulous Fourth, both branches of Christopher's are running a special menu - three courses for £35 including a mint julep, and booking is essential.

How about Louisiana pan-fried oysters with celeriac remoulade and Southern catsup, followed by 'Texas rub' BBQ rump of lamb with avocado tamale, finishing off with margarita mousse? Or maybe Minnesota wild rice and duck soup, then New England lobster clambake with chorizo, corn and new potatoes, and after that baked New York cheesecake? Y'all have fun now...!

Christopher's American Grill
Buckingham Palace Road, SW1

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