Bellamy’s: French finesse fit for Royalty

Contemporary brasserie counting the Queen among fans
Fay Maschler4 December 2017

My dutiful admiration for the Queen soared to a state approaching fandom when, in March 2016, I read that she had dined at Bellamy’s — and not for the first time. In her terms you might almost say she’s a regular. Some restaurants are the person who owns them, and Bellamy’s is Gavin Rankin. Gavin worked for Mark Birley, original creator of Annabel’s and Mark’s Club, outstripping him, to my mind, in charm and subtlety. He is also a cracking mimic. French-Belgian brasseries inspire the look and the menu, which features the sort of simple things done well that posh people like, the dishes Arabella Boxer celebrated in her perspicacious Book of English Food. You might choose to start with iced lobster soufflé but find milk chocolate Minstrels served with coffee. How well Gavin understands. A table d’hôte menu at lunch and dinner offers excellent value and French wines kick off very reasonably. Young customers are encouraged — as well as venerable royalty.

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